V8 overheating issues

[Mark57]

Hi Jim... afraid I cannot be of much assistance with your particular problem, but it's good to see a fellow "Islander" on the Forum.

<h5>Mark
'57 Transtar Deluxe
Vancouver Island </h5>

[StudeMann]

V8 overheating issues

Hello,

I purchased a 51 Land Cruiser about a year ago and I'm in the process of getting her road-worthy and ready to license.

After having the brakes and exhaust replaced and rebuilding the carburator I have now discovered that the engine appears to run hot when it is revved up. According to the temp gauge, it comes up to operating temp fairly quickly after start up. Then when I rev it I can watch the gauge climb quickly to the hot range and coolant begins to weep out the radiator overflow tube. I replaced the 180 degree thermostat with a 160 degree and it made no difference so there must be something else causing the problem.

There is a slight whine that occurs at when it is a little above idle and goes away when revved higher so I am suspecting the water pump might be the problem. I also noticed that the fan pulley is about 1/4" forward of the crank pulley below so perhaps it was dissambled at one time and not put back together correctly. It is the original 232 V8 with auto transmission.

Any suggestions of what the problem might be and steps to rectify it would be appreciated. Thanks.

[torker]

I've read(as opposed to actual experience)that some rebuilt pumps have had the impeller incorrectly pressed onto the shaft, so that the pump does not operate efficiently, and your engine will overheat. That your pulley doesn't align is an indication that this could be the case. Try the "search" option on this forum, and you likely will find an earlier discussion of this particular topic.

[52 Ragtop]

Is the gauge reading properly? Use a thermometer in the coolant and see if it is really hot, or just a bad gauge or sending unit.

Jim

[DEEPNHOCK]

I agree with the 'check the water pump' comment, since you already see an alignment problem that should not be there.
Also....
When was the last time the block had a good cleaning 'inside'?
This is a totally messy and thankless job, but it is sure to bring peace of mind, and possible cure to a 'hot spot' boil over problem.
To 'really' clean the block back passages you will need to put the car up on jack stands.
Disconnect the battery. Remove the starter.
Remove the two drain plugs.
Remove the 'welch plugs' (freeze plugs, casting plugs, whatever you want to call them)..
Attack the inside of the block with a pressure washer, a coat hanger, water hose, air hose...
Anything that will get the 'crud' out of of the holes and all over you, and your neighbors driveway..
(of course you don't do this in your own driveway[}])
Good maintenance to R&R the freeze plugs once every 60 years or so...
Getting the crud out can help with an overheating problem caused by a lack of circulation of coolant due to a partial blockage.
Hope the info helps.
(Get a snorkel and mask and have someone take pic's and post 'em here![]..This place can use the levity)
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by StudeMann

Hello,

I purchased a 51 Land Cruiser about a year ago and I'm in the process of getting her road-worthy and ready to license.

After having the brakes and exhaust replaced and rebuilding the carburator I have now discovered that the engine appears to run hot when it is revved up. According to the temp gauge, it comes up to operating temp fairly quickly after start up. Then when I rev it I can watch the gauge climb quickly to the hot range and coolant begins to weep out the radiator overflow tube. I replaced the 180 degree thermostat with a 160 degree and it made no difference so there must be something else causing the problem.

There is a slight whine that occurs at when it is a little above idle and goes away when revved higher so I am suspecting the water pump might be the problem. I also noticed that the fan pulley is about 1/4" forward of the crank pulley below so perhaps it was dissambled at one time and not put back together correctly. It is the original 232 V8 with auto transmission.

Any suggestions of what the problem might be and steps to rectify it would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Chucks Stude]

Amen, to the snorkel and mask comment. This one that I have got now needs seals, front and back, freeze plugs, and water jacket cleanout. I think that I will pull the engine, it would be easier.

[Chucks Stude]

Amen, to the snorkel and mask comment. This one that I have got now needs seals, front and back, freeze plugs, and water jacket cleanout. I think that I will pull the engine, it would be easier.

[StudeMann]

Thanks everyone for your comments,

I had wondered about the gauge and thought about checking the temperature of the coolant but I wasn't sure what temperature is 'normal' when the engine is revved up? What is the acceptable temperature range? The fact that the coolant begins to weep out the radiator overflow makes me think the gauge is probably not too far off.

I also suspected I would need to 'get dirty' and clean out the coolant passages in the engine block but I was hoping I could simply swap the water pump and solve the problem. When I changed the thermostat I found some hard deposits just above and below the thermostat so I suspect there is more of this in the engine block itslef. From what I know of her history, she appears to have about 60K original miles. Elsie (LC as in Land Cruiser) appears to be all original except for an older paint job and the old wiring harness under the hood is pretty fragile. I was concerned that I might short everything out if I get under there and spray a lot of water around. I guess I'll just have to dive in and be as careful as I can.

Bob Johnstone emailed me with links to lots of water pump info on his website so when I pull off the water pump I' should be able to determine if it's contributing to the problem as well.

It's good to be back in the SDC after an absence of 18 years while busy raising our kids. My first stude was a 63 Lark VI 4 door followed by a pair of 51 and 56 1/2 ton trucks, then a 51 Champion Starlite Coupe and now the 51 Land Cruiser. Not bad for a boy raised with all Chevy cars and Ford trucks.

Thanks again.


I don't have many tools (ye

[Guest]

Good to have you back!

I also had a '51 with a crumbling harness and contacted Studebakers West for a new one that went in almost by itself. Get both front and rear sets and you'll never have to worry about it again.



Western Washington, USA