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00RACER
05-22-2008, 12:31 PM
Sometime back there was a post on the color of paint used to look like the original gas tank. I believe JDP had it on. Looking for the color of 65 Sport Sedan gas tank.
Thanks
PAUL LAUSCH

41 Frank
05-23-2008, 09:47 AM
I have always used an aluminum color in spray bombs. Eastwood however sells a spray in cans called "Tank Tone" It is advertized as replicating the look of the original finish and containing zinc to protect tank from rust. Average tank requires two cans @ $11.99.Kind of pricey in my opinion. www.eastwood.com


Frank van Doorn
1962 GT Hawk 4 speed
1963 Daytona Conv
1941 Champion R-2 Rod

Dick Steinkamp
05-23-2008, 09:54 AM
I think this is the thread you referred to...

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdc_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14650&SearchTerms=gas+tank+color



http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s66/ddstnkmp/54%20starlight/HiResS2Dsig2.jpg

barnlark
05-24-2008, 01:20 AM
Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp
"I think this is the thread you referred to..."

Thanks for the link, Dick. Good info. I have purchased two NOS '60 tanks from Sasco in the past. Those tanks had bare steel on the bolt/frame mount pads but had surface rust on those areas only. The rest of the tank had to be galvanized, it was so clean. If it had been treated steel, why not treat the whole tank? I prepped my last one and then used POR-15 on the bolt mounting area only. I then used the POR Pellucid Clear for the rest of the tank. Except that it looks clean and shiny, it looks the stock color from Studebaker. If silver paint doesn't get docked, I hope that won't.

Dick Steinkamp
05-24-2008, 10:55 AM
quote:Originally posted by barnlark
If silver paint doesn't get docked, I hope that won't.




Your tank sounds beautiful [:p].

Keep in mind that "the judges" are not this uniform group of experts that know all and see all and somehow show up at every SDC meet. They are volunteers, folks just like you and me, that do their best. They are (for the most part) different people for each event due to schedules and travel. You MIGHT get one that knows (or thinks they know) that the tank should be somewhat rusty with splotches of undercoating and deduct points for your perfect tank (somewhat like the deduction for clear coat paint), or (more likely) you might get one that admires your work and agrees that it is the way Studebaker INTENDED even though they didn't quite pull it off :D.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s66/ddstnkmp/54%20starlight/HiResS2Dsig2.jpg

ROADRACELARK
05-24-2008, 11:13 AM
Dave,

Possibly the factory left the mounting pads in "plain steel" to insure a good ground for the correct/accurate operation of the fuel sending unit and guage. Several times I've had to run a separate ground wire from a sender mount screw to an available hole in the frame (after grinding that area shiney) to achieve proper operation of the fuel guage. Just a thought.:)

Dan Miller
Atlanta, GA

[img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
Road Racers turn left AND right.

gordr
05-24-2008, 11:30 AM
IIRC, fuel tanks were (are still?) made from "terne plate", which is steel with a thin coating of lead-tin alloy, like solder.

Chances are the plating got burned off the metal when the two halves of the tank got pinch-welded together at the flange, or when the mounting holes were punched in the flange.

I'd think a metallic paint with a darker, duller color than aluminum would be close. Perhaps some of that "zinc-rich cold galvanizing" paint, and then buff it a bit.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

barnlark
05-25-2008, 08:45 PM
Originally posted by ROADRACELARK
Dave,
Possibly the factory left the mounting pads in "plain steel" to insure a good ground for the correct/accurate operation of the fuel sending unit and guage. Several times I've had to run a separate ground wire from a sender mount screw to an available hole in the frame (after grinding that area shiney) to achieve proper operation of the fuel guage. Just a thought.:)



Dan, boy are you on the mark on that statement. I'm having an issue that I'm sure is a ground problem for my gas gauge. I have a new sending unit in the nos tank and I thought it might be the red wire to the sending unit. My neighbor suggested the same thing for a better ground. He likes to make fun of my over use of POR products because it has come back to bite me a few times.
I know this isn't the tech forum, but since we straightened out the tank color question, I have another electrical question from last night... I have a bright red amp light glowing when using my headlights only; never red during the day. When I hit the brights, the lights go out and it appears/sounds to trip the breaker. I go back to the regular lights and all is back to normal, light still red though. The lights aren't dim while driving, but when I trickle the battery later it shows a full charge needed on the DieHard like it was running on battery only. New battery, nos switch, generator checked out fine by a shop. Not sure what it might be..no shorts. Original harness, however. Maybe a bad nos switch or plug at the dimmer??? Any ideas?
BTW, I'll try the ground wire on my clean metal, nonoversprayed w/ undercoating tank, D.S... :))

ROADRACELARK
05-25-2008, 09:58 PM
Dave,

Be sure to check that dimmer switch plug real close. Thay have a tendancy to deteriorate internally and new ones are available. You stated the "switch" was NOS. Were you refering to the dimmer switch or the headlight switch? Which ever one is the NOS one, check the other real closely...It might be also ready for replacement as well as the circuit breaker on the if it's the headlight switch. Hope this helps.:)

Dan Miller
Atlanta, GA

[img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
Road Racers turn left AND right.

barnlark
05-25-2008, 10:06 PM
Dan,
Both headlight and dimmer switches are nos. The '59 had a fuse. '60 does not. The headlight switch feels hot to the touch, but I'm not running anything else on it right now. Do you suggest splicing in a new plug? It is the original harness and that could be an old connector/ nasty plug.

Neal in NM
05-26-2008, 08:38 AM
I think the inside should be a muddy varnish brown with a little rust and dirt.[}:)] Neal

ROADRACELARK
05-26-2008, 08:52 AM
Dave,

I would. They're not that expensive and you'll eliminate that as a possible future problem. Kind'a like preventative maintenance.;) While you're at it, make sure you inspect the main under-dash harness for any suspect wires. You said the switch gets hot, feel along the harness for that same heat. Just don't have a "melt-down"[xx(] While you're at it, locate that circuit breaker you said you heard "ping". They are prone to fail with age also. Hope this helps.:)

Dan Miller
Atlanta, GA

[img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
Road Racers turn left AND right.

barnlark
05-26-2008, 10:49 AM
Are those replacement plugs NAPA or Stude specific.. and with pigtails? The small fuse panel is nos, too. Harness does not get hot. I checked that right away. I think the switch is just a little warm normally with the lights on. During the car's rebuild I went over the harness outside of the car, fixed weak spots and adapted it to the '64 column's neutral safety switch then reinstalled it all, so it's fairly safe except for that plug. I am going to work on the gas tank and that ground while the stores are closed today. Thanks Dan.

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh48/newshooter44/DSCN0087-1.jpg