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herbpcpa
05-19-2008, 06:28 PM
My R1 Avanti needs new plugs and plug wires. Champion J-12Y don't seem to be available. Okay to use the Autolite plugs? (I believe the number is 85.) Also, do I want the solid copper wires at about $33 or the Silicone at $45? Do the Silicone wires use carbon core instead of copper?

N8N
05-19-2008, 06:38 PM
Champion J12YC or RJ12YC is still available, although people have their preferences as to plugs. In general I prefer Autolite (75 is the direct replacement for a J12Y; 85 is the resistor version) or Bosch Supers (not sure if a direct cross is available; should be something like a W7F or W8F?) but I have no idea how they work on a R1 compared to the factory Champions. Whatever you do don't use platinum plugs. An Avanti is one car you might be able to get away with running solid copper wires on due to all the shielding but I don't know that there's a real performance advantage to doing so.

There's a page on spark plugs on the interchange list on my web site; in fact trying to find alternate spark plugs was kind of the impetus for starting that whole mess. You might want to look there even if you'd prefer to stick with Champions; they're selling them by new "stock numbers" now which are different from the part numbers that we know and love (and that actually make sense.)

nate

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jjones
05-19-2008, 07:20 PM
The J12YC plugs are available at RockAuto.com. These guys seem to have reasonable prices and even list a few Studebaker parts. I have been happy with their service, especially after the local NAPA switched to computer nerds instead of parts men.

jeff

herbpcpa
05-19-2008, 07:49 PM
Why not platinum plugs?

JDP
05-19-2008, 08:39 PM
I sell the wire sets, $35.00 to your door.

JDP/Maryland

N8N
05-19-2008, 08:54 PM
Platinum plugs were basically designed to extend the plug service interval on modern cars to reduce mandatory service costs. They work fine on engines with fuel injection and feedback control of fuel mixture. On an older car that tends to run rich at times, they foul and they don't self-clean nearly as well as a good old fashioned conventional plug. Some of them, e.g. Bosch, are prone to fouling even on engines that don't have particularly poor mixture control. Really, the only downside to the cheaper plugs is that they have to be replaced or cleaned and regapped more often, but that's probably not a big deal to most Studebaker owners.

nate

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gibbsr1
05-20-2008, 05:47 AM
I disagree about the platinum plugs. I tried them out om my R1 and they solved all of my plug problems. I tried the bosch supers at the south bend drag race and the car would barley run.

Dan Giblin
Cincinnati, OH

herbpcpa
05-20-2008, 08:06 AM
Explain the differance in resistor and non resistor plugs please. There are resistor wires also correct? What are they? If you have resistor plugs do you need resistor wires also?

JDP
05-20-2008, 08:24 AM
I just noticed you were looking at parts store plug wires. I sell the correct custom cut to fit plug wires, but don't recommend the parts store jobs just out of a selfish interest. Unless the length is correct it won't fit under the shielding and look good. If the diameter is wrong, it won't fit in the rubber channel and the coil wire will certainly be too long..

JDP/Maryland

53k
05-20-2008, 09:30 AM
quote:Originally posted by herbpcpa

My R1 Avanti needs new plugs and plug wires. Champion J-12Y don't seem to be available. Okay to use the Autolite plugs? (I believe the number is 85.) Also, do I want the solid copper wires at about $33 or the Silicone at $45? Do the Silicone wires use carbon core instead of copper?

I'd stay away from solid copper core, especially if you want to listen to a radio. The reason for the stainless shielding was to reduce intereference, but even the shielding can't cope with copper core. Like JP said, you can't go any larger than 7mm wires or you won't get them in the looms. Voice of experience- On our chapter Route 66 Trip in 2003 I had a lot of starting problems with my '64 R-2 Avanti. We finally determined that the plug wires were bad. One of the travelers who had worked at NAPA told me to get a set of wires for a 454 Chevrolet. The NAPA store in Needles, CA only had a set of 8mm solid core wires. The lengths were good, but they were 8mm and I couldn't get them in the loom slots or bolt on the shielding. We couldn't use out two-way radios for the rest of the trip due to interference.


[img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine
1962 Gravely Model L (Studebaker-Packard serial plate)
1972 Gravely Model 430 (Studebaker name plate, Studebaker Onan engine)

bonehead007
05-20-2008, 10:58 AM
JDP's right about the wires. I purchased a set from him a while back and recently put them in my Avanti. They have to be able to snap into the 4 channels on each side of the engine. The plugs you can pick up from a local store, Studebaker Int, Sasco, etc.. JDP's wires matched perfectly...

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q189/bonehead007/MVC-021F.jpg

New Jersey & Studes Perfect Together

Silent Bob
05-20-2008, 12:20 PM
JDP's wire sets are the ones to buy. Perfect fit. Cost the same as brand-x.

Harv
05-21-2008, 11:52 AM
Anyone out there, how about a reply to Herb's question about resistor plugs & resistor wires. I have "R" plugs in my '64 R1 GT Hawk and still have a bit of AM Radio static. Will changing to a different wire set (resistor???) help?

Thanks, Harv [8D]

StudeBakerHarv

N8N
05-21-2008, 01:37 PM
Most any wires you can buy now, save for solid core wires which are generally sold "for off-road use only" are "suppression" style wires. Do you have all the condensers on the coil, alternator, regulator, etc.?

nate

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