PDA

View Full Version : Touchy Accelerator



61LaRk4dr
05-02-2008, 04:29 PM
So I went out today to work on the lark again. I started it and the idle was smooth. I backed it out of the garage and out of the driveway without any problem. I put it into drive an away it went. Because I am still testing this vehicle I figured I would just take it around the block (I have only been able to loop around the block 1 time before). It ran so well, I decided to take it around the block one more time.

At this time the lark is running at operating temp (dummy temp gage is between "H" and "C"). I was getting ready to pull out into the road by pressing on the accelerator and wouldn't you know it...it dies. I put it into park and started it right up again. Put it into drive slightly tapped on the accelerator...it dies again. I started it one more time. I popped it into drive and lightly tap the accelerator... I was able to get it back to the garage at 5 mph but if I stepped on the accelerator too much, the car would shudder and start to die. If I was quick enough and let off the accelerator completely, the engine would start running again.

Sorry for the long winded description....but what does this all mean? It idles great in park, it is accelerator sensitive in both drive and reverse (anytime when I need to "punch it") and I am not sure what to do.

Here is the specs.

1961 Lark 4-dr
170 6 cyl. Automatic
Model AS Carter Carb.

1947 Studebaker M-5
1948 Studebaker Land Cruiser
1961 Studebaker Lark 4-dr. Sedan
http://images1.filecloud.com/690439/untitled.JPG

JDP
05-02-2008, 04:32 PM
Make sure the accelerator pump is squiring gas.

JDP/Maryland

N8N
05-02-2008, 05:20 PM
that and check the fuel filter if you haven't already.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

59r2
05-02-2008, 05:34 PM
The first would check after the accelarator pump to make sure you have gas ,is a vacum leak.The dying out is from the engine going from idle to main jets and there isn' proper gas in the air mixture. A vacum leak can cause this, if it is not the acc. pump.Check connections to the vacum advance hose, worn throtle rod,loose carb nuts at the manifold holding carb down. You also check the float bowl for dirt clogging the main jets.Also if it has a vacum booster to the brakes check the check valve and hose.
JOE

1959 HARDTOP R2 clone
1960 conv
SDC member since 1972

61LaRk4dr
05-02-2008, 08:41 PM
quote:Originally posted by 59r2

The first would check after the accelarator pump to make sure you have gas ,is a vacum leak.The dying out is from the engine going from idle to main jets and there isn' proper gas in the air mixture. A vacum leak can cause this, if it is not the acc. pump.Check connections to the vacum advance hose, worn throtle rod,loose carb nuts at the manifold holding carb down. You also check the float bowl for dirt clogging the main jets.Also if it has a vacum booster to the brakes check the check valve and hose.
JOE

1959 HARDTOP R2 clone
1960 conv
SDC member since 1972


Do you think it could be the idle mixtur adjusting screw? I know in the mannual that it says to screw into the carburetor until it bottoms lightly, which I am still unclear what that means (pardon my ignorance). I am pretty certain that the adjustment is not right either and could use some advice on that to.

Thank you

1947 Studebaker M-5
1948 Studebaker Land Cruiser
1961 Studebaker Lark 4-dr. Sedan
http://images1.filecloud.com/690439/untitled.JPG

bige
05-02-2008, 09:38 PM
Mixture shouldn't affect off throttle acceleration to that extent. If the squirters are shooting a strong stream at very little throttle than go to initial timing and advance it some.

ErnieR

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/AvantiR2/track.jpg

LarkVIII
05-03-2008, 06:22 AM
If it's idling great in park then your accelerator pump is either shot or the squirter port is clogged. I don't know if they still make it,but Gum Out used to make a kit that would block off the fuel line and feed carb cleaner directly into the carb.You'd hang an inverted can of the cleaner with a special fitting and tube fed directily into the fuel inlet and it would clean out the carb very quickly.Worked great.



quote:Originally posted by 61LaRk4dr

So I went out today to work on the lark again. I started it and the idle was smooth. I backed it out of the garage and out of the driveway without any problem. I put it into drive an away it went. Because I am still testing this vehicle I figured I would just take it around the block (I have only been able to loop around the block 1 time before). It ran so well, I decided to take it around the block one more time.

At this time the lark is running at operating temp (dummy temp gage is between "H" and "C"). I was getting ready to pull out into the road by pressing on the accelerator and wouldn't you know it...it dies. I put it into park and started it right up again. Put it into drive slightly tapped on the accelerator...it dies again. I started it one more time. I popped it into drive and lightly tap the accelerator... I was able to get it back to the garage at 5 mph but if I stepped on the accelerator too much, the car would shudder and start to die. If I was quick enough and let off the accelerator completely, the engine would start running again.

Sorry for the long winded description....but what does this all mean? It idles great in park, it is accelerator sensitive in both drive and reverse (anytime when I need to "punch it") and I am not sure what to do.

Here is the specs.

1961 Lark 4-dr
170 6 cyl. Automatic
Model AS Carter Carb.

1947 Studebaker M-5
1948 Studebaker Land Cruiser
1961 Studebaker Lark 4-dr. Sedan
http://images1.filecloud.com/690439/untitled.JPG


63VY4 Leakin' Lena Hagerstown MD

jackb
05-05-2008, 04:40 PM
...interesting thread.....My 63' WW Stromberg was found NOS or rebuilt in a nice box when I bought it. Installed it on the car , adjusted things and it ran great for weeks. I then decided it was fast idling too high on start up , so I leaned out the choke a bit. I liked the fast idle start but got some hesitation on driving out the driveway and until ~ 120-230 degrees.
I'll richen up things now that it's warmed up and see how things look.....Once warm this carb/engine runs great. I do admit I haven't been driving it enough...