View Full Version : Hanging a door

04-27-2008, 05:31 PM
I'm about to hang myself! Is there a trick to putting one back on?
I have run several layers of wide painters tape on the rear of the fender and have been wrestling with the driver's door. Just when one hinge looks like it's going in, the other is stuck.
Slather it all up with grease? [:p]

Western Washington, USA

04-27-2008, 05:39 PM
Sounds like you need to rent Brian Curtis' door holding fixture! :D

Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

04-27-2008, 05:45 PM
We put the hinges on the car first, then put the door on the hinges, and adjust as needed.

Sounds simple, doesn't it? :)

Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, GA

04-27-2008, 05:57 PM
Some time it seems like it would be easier to adjust the fenders to fit the door. That's just what I did 0n the GT today. The only problem, I used a HAMMER to adjust the rear 1/4 panel. Now I must do some more body work. NT

Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.

Warren Webb
04-27-2008, 06:42 PM
I agree with Matthew. I'd put the hinges on first, then mount the door. You may need to shim the hinges between the hinge & the door shell. Shims I have run across have the bolt holes & look like a meat tenderizer so as to grab & not allow anything to slip. That should give you any movement in & out. The for & aft movement is just on the door shell itself. If you have any help there with you, it may help to use some wooden mixing sticks to position the door as you slowly close it & have someone inside tighten at least 2 of the phillips head bolts inside when it looks good. Check the door operation & tighten everything up when your happy with the fit. I align with the quarter panel first, then adjust the front fender to the door. Hope this helps.

04-27-2008, 10:44 PM
I was told NEVER to remove the hinge from the door. Always remove the the hinges at the pillars. If you are having issues, screw all the door screws in, then tighten the middle one only, that way you can "pivot" the door up/down etc. Once where you like it, then tighten.

There will be times where shims are needed. I am not sure if any Studebaker shims are available anymore, butt you can make your own.

04-28-2008, 09:10 AM
Bondo, I'd always heard that too, but it's a thought I'm entertaining. I'd scribe the position of the hinges on the door first and use lots of paint sticks!
Thanks guys!

Western Washington, USA

04-28-2008, 01:42 PM
Hinges on the car first. Striker plate off the car. Support (hydraulic jack?) under door. Tighten screws into door lightly. Close door carefully. Shim and reposition as necessary! Replace striker plate and adjust latch. Patience is a virtue.

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

04-28-2008, 09:29 PM
Got 'er done! Taking off the hinges at the door, hanging them loosly in the pillar then rebolting the hinges at the door worked like a charm. Just remember to scribe where they go, so rehanging is a snap and no skinned metal.
Thanks a bunch, all!

Western Washington, USA