I'm hoping for a little perspective here. I bent the flex plate while tearing down my motor,289 R-1 Avanti, and I believe I can flaten it back out and re-use it.It is not too bent,more sort of warped. My question is,how flat does it need to be? Perfectly flat? Flat so all the bolt holes are in roughly the same plane? More or less flat and even? I'm going to a fair amount of trouble on this car and I don't want to put back questionable parts nor do I want to spend more than really needed. Thanks. Richard
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Flex Plate
Collapse
X
-
Yeah, considering I'm in the same situation(cracked flexplate no damage though), I'd opt for a new flexplate. It will either get real expensive if it cracks followed by pulling engine and trans, or it will crack followed by dropping the trans. Either way to save yourself some pain, I'd work with a new flexplate....
No mine hasn't been replaced yet but we're looking at it in the next couple of weeks [)]
1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
1950 Studebaker 2R5 with 170 turbocharged
[img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00003.jpg?t=1171152673[/img=left]
[img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00009.jpg?t=1171153019[/img=right]
[img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000137-1.jpg[/img=left]
[img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00005.jpg?t=1171153370[/img=right]1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)
Comment
-
A new flex plate it is then. No problem. Just thought I'd ask before buying parts. Actually there has been discussion elsewhere about putting two flex plates back to back and not using the reinforcement bit. Also,about "dialing in" the bellhousing I'm hearing about half the folks advising for it and the other half saying not to bother. Now,to be completely truthful,I plan on doing it but if anyone has an opinion otherwise I'd like to hear it. The agrument about not doing a "dial in" goes along the lines that the bellhousing aligns with pins and won't move much anyway. Which makes sense to me but..........then again. Richard
Comment
-
quote:Originally posted by rdmaxon
A new flex plate it is then. No problem. Just thought I'd ask before buying parts. Actually there has been discussion elsewhere about putting two flex plates back to back and not using the reinforcement bit. Also,about "dialing in" the bellhousing I'm hearing about half the folks advising for it and the other half saying not to bother. Now,to be completely truthful,I plan on doing it but if anyone has an opinion otherwise I'd like to hear it. The agrument about not doing a "dial in" goes along the lines that the bellhousing aligns with pins and won't move much anyway. Which makes sense to me but..........then again. Richard
The bellhousing will align with the pins and won't move...it will probably be the WRONG alignment, however, to the centerline of the crank. [xx(]
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA
Comment
-
Part of the 'dialing in' procedure is to drill new holes for the alignment pins so they will hold the new correct alignment. Another alternative is to use offset pins, if you know a talented machinist.
Tim K.
'64 R2 GT HawkTim K.
\'64 R2 GT Hawk
Comment
-
Richard, I almost made a big mistake. I was trying to dial the bellhousing in and found that it kept running out. It was so bad I thought it was the converter, I sent the converter back to have it checked and they said there was nothing wrong with it, I then remembered when I took my motor and trans apart I had that flex plate dangling with the converter half attached. I bent it and you could not tell by just looking at it. I got a new one from Sudebaker Int. I also invested in the smaller reinforcement plate and my converter after reinstalling everything was dead on perfect. Get the new stuff it is not expensive and it gives you peace of mind. Once you put all that stuff together it's hard to take it all apart again. Don't do anything to hurt your motivation
Studebakers forever!Studebakers forever!
Comment
-
BTW, here's what happens when you don't dial in the bellhousing. (Or, if you hire a really stupid mechanic who leaves the dowels out after servicing the trans.)
[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]
Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
Comment
-
Yikes SBK , duct tape won't fix that! I will be installing a new flex plate with reinforcing piece and doing the dialing in bit. Thanks for all the replies.Now if the machine shop will just get on with my motor.............. Richard [R3266]
Comment
Comment