Convertible top frame help and update..

[barnlark]

Ok, I know many of you have restored or have worked on the convertibles, so I have this to ask; Why does the top frame above the front windows not fit snugly on the top of those window frames? You can look at the windows from the rear windows forward and see the stainless strips holding the rubber mouldings fitting great until it meets the middle of the front windows..there it has a curve on the convertible frame that doesn't meet the stainless window frame. It has a gap. Drives me nuts and allows wind and possibly water in. I thought about shimming that area with flat rubber to have it fit correctly, but wonder why it wasn't done right in the first place. Didn't anyone notice the fit at the factory? Is there a fix you may know of and did the frames fit like that up to '64? Thanks.

[53k]

quote:Originally posted by barnlark

Ok, I know many of you have restored or have worked on the convertibles, so I have this to ask; Why does the top frame above the front windows not fit snugly on the top of those window frames? You can look at the windows from the rear windows forward and see the stainless strips holding the rubber mouldings fitting great until it meets the middle of the front windows..there it has a curve on the convertible frame that doesn't meet the stainless window frame. It has a gap. Drives me nuts and allows wind and possibly water in. I thought about shimming that area with flat rubber to have it fit correctly, but wonder why it wasn't done right in the first place. Didn't anyone notice the fit at the factory? Is there a fix you may know of and did the frames fit like that up to '64? Thanks.

I have very poor fit in several places on my '64 convertible too. The Shop Manual does address some adjustments, but I'm not sure it will cover your problem. Perhaps the top has shrunk and is too tight across the front? The poor fit may be characteristic of the '63s and '64s. The '61 and '62 convertibles I owned in the past had excellent fit along the windows. In fact, when I picked up the '62 and drove it home, it was rainy all day and the car stayed completely dry inside.


[img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine
1962 Gravely Model L (Studebaker-Packard serial plate)
1972 Gravely Model 430 (Studebaker name plate, Studebaker Onan engine)

[KGlowacky]

Has there been any work done to that front header pannel? I know on my brand X conv. top I had to bend it to fit before I installed the new cover as time, top pressure and rust got it out of shape.

[bondobilly]

Is your convertible top similar to the ones used on the "post war" bodies? They were a strange breed and have a lot of "slop adjustment" built in to the top mechanism. From recollection, my top had turnbuckles in it that allowed you to squeeze the sides in or out, and the adjustment could either put a convex curve or convex curve up front. You also might try and see if you can adjust the front tangs that grab the top and lock it. The post war bodies could be moved slightly right or left which if they do that on your car migt help. I am not familiar with the later body cars.

[barnlark]

My top is brand new. It's not how my top fits, it's how the frame has the curve built into it and the stainless strips attached to it that hold the front window rubber channel/gasket. They don't fit flat on the top of the window stainless frame. The rear windows fits perfectly into the rubber, but there is a small gap on the front windows. This bothered me on my first convertible, too. It's not the header or any adjustment, it's something that needs to be added under those stainless strips for about 6 inches. I was going to try flat rubber stock and shim it just to fit better. I was hoping another convertible top owner had tried this. Are the frames the same '60 to '64? I know the windshields changed..

[jackb]

.....the many years I drove my 64' ragtop (in all weather), I never had any water get in the car from those locations. As in most 64's, plenty of water got in around the doors and other areas. I accepted it as the fit for the day (era). Most ragtops were noisy & leaky-Stude no different than others. After my frame-off resto, most of my driving was top down....eliminated the tappet noise too.....!

[barnlark]

You've got me there. My friend with the same year car said the same thing, "what do you care, the top will be down all summer." He even said he can't remember what his top looked like! But, since it's still cold out and I'd like to drive it with the top and windows up, I'd like to have it fit correctly without major drafts. It won't be in the rain on purpose anytime soon, but I'd like to have a proper fit and finish with this top. I paid for it to fit, but have been trying to get it right since. It's a fighter like everything else on this car..

[jackb]

.......I'll admit up front after my full priced resto, I expected a lot from the fit & finish on the car. I do believe the top, mechanism & fit were the best the Stude restorer could perform. No complaints there at all.....Its just that I eventually accepted the fact that there was always going to be drafts & noises out of the car.......

[barnlark]

I took the seats out and inside rear side panels and tried to adjust the top on the passenger side last night. The pivot points and the screw headed shoulder bolts are loose on that side for the frame and the chrome bar. The driver's side is as perfect as I can get it. Windows fit really nicely. It will never fit on the top of the front window correctly, I guess, but looks and feels the way it should.
Anyway, those shoulder bolts need bushings to fix the slop in there on the other side. Were they nylon or some form of metal? The ram cylinders had nylon bushings which I found, but It seems like those top bolts could be a better style to make it more tight with the spring washers. The looseness in them is keeping the center part of the frame from fully tightening upward off of the rear window. Right now the rear window winds up and hits the stainless strip for the rubber moulding..I had to take the new rubber out to protect it.
At some point I'm going to get caught in the rain and can't give up on this thing! It takes two people to get it all tightened up, but it's really a tough fix right now. I'm off in search of new bolts and a few bushing experiments during my lunch time..Has anyone worked on these tops to any extent that can offer some tips?

[barnlark]

Found new shoulder bolts and nylon washers. The pivots are now tight and amazingly got the frame higher up under the new top and above the windows much better. The slop from loose bolts, washers, nuts and worn bushings were causing the problems. A little fabricating involved, but what a difference,