Clock

[mdelapp]

I am about to pull the inoperative clock out of the dash in my 53 Commander HT and replace with a blank insert I have, while I try to see if I can get it to run. My older brother recalls when he used to pull out the clock in his Ford and have to fiddle with some points that would periodically close to rewind the clock. When the clock wound down the points would close (or open) to start the cycle over. Anyone have any experience with these clocks. I'm sure I could send it off to the little old clockmaker for a couple of hundred and get it going, but would rather try it myself.
Thanks fellas
Mike DeLapp
P.S. Car has been converted to 12V so not sure what impact that may have on its current state of operability or what not to do when I get it going.

Mike DeLapp
Barrington, IL
53 Commander Hardtop

[Scott]

Yes, it probably has the little points inside that might need cleaning up. The REAL cause of it not working might actually be the accumulation of dirt and gunk over the years. It takes some brake cleaner squirted in there or other stuff (other people will have favorites). You'll have to take the case off and don't get it on the face of the clock.

[Skip Lackie]

Your understanding of how these clocks work is correct. They are basically wind-up clocks that use spring-loaded points and DC to periodically wind them up. When you get it apart, you can check the condition of the points and maybe file them down a bit. Then push the moveable point back and see if the clock starts. The two most common problems with these clocks are bad points and worn bearings/bushings. If the points are okay, then some light oil on the little bushings (the many places where a shaft rides in the clock frame) may free the thing up. But it's possible that a bushing or rod is worn so badly that the clock won't run reliably. If the clock runs okay upside down or lying on its face, that's probably the case. Connect it to a battery overnight and see if it's still runnning in the morning.

If you can't get it to run reliably yourself, then you can either get it restored professionally or replace it with one of the quartz movements now available. Replacing the movement is probably cheaper, but the clock rotation will not be authentic, and will lack that characteristic "click" of the original clock.
Skip Lackie

[JDP]

I bought a 4 oz can of instrument oil from Kano Labs (the Kroil Guys)to use on my clocks. ( A 100 year supply)


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[mdelapp]

If the home remedy fails, what is the contact for the quartz replacmenet? Does it keep the same face?

Mike DeLapp
Barrington, IL
53 Commander Hardtop

[StudeRich]

Mike if you use the "search" on this site, you get lots of help on "clock" or "clocks" -I found this pretty good string:

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdc_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5669&SearchTerms=clock

If you repair your clock, you will definetely have a problem running it with a 12V system, you will need a Volt-a-Drop unit if you can still find them. The good news is if you convert to digital it will be 12V or 1 1/2 volt AA battery.

quote:Originally posted by mdelapp

If the home remedy fails, what is the contact for the quartz replacmenet? Does it keep the same face?
Mike DeLapp

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[Skip Lackie]

The latest edition of Hemmings lists about a dozen places that rebuild car clocks and/or sell quartz movements. The quartz movements are generally sold to match the dimensions of an original clock. The name of the clock manufacturer and the date of manufacture is generally stamped on the clock innards somewhere. That's enough to get a clock that will match your old one. Your old face and hands will fit.
Skip Lackie

[KGlowacky]

Have converted many clocks to quarts and they all retained the org. look(face). I use Red Line gauge in Humbolt Tenn. Great work, reasonable pricing and quick turnaround. Good Luck.

[mdelapp]

Got the clock out. A little trombone oil on the pivot points and it is now ticking. Hooked up my battery charger to the 6V setting and it has rewound it a half-dozen times. I guess now is do I let 12V rewind it or get a volt-a-drop?
Found the volt a drop site.
You guys have been great
I will post the final outcome
Thanks

Mike DeLapp
Barrington, IL
53 Commander Hardtop

[showbizkid]

Definitely drop the voltage, Mike. 12v applied to that mechanism will cause it to activate with more force than it was designed for, and will burn it out.


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