Any tips for changing heads?

[Dan White]

Since I am doing quite a bit of work on the R1 Hawk to get it ready for Lancaster I thought I would swap the heads on it with a set of ported/polished and oversized valve jobs I have had sitting in the garage for about 13 years or so. Anyone have some tips on the best way to treat the head gaskets and tightening other than what is in the shop manual?

Thanks!

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

[52 Ragtop]

First thing "I'd" do, replace the valve seals, and while the springs are off, check all the valve seats for rust. Then follow the shop manual for torque specs and sequence.

Jim

[Dan White]

Re-done heads are ready to go with new seals,etc. So that much is already done!

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

[PackardV8]

1. Have you decided whether to use thin or thick head gaskets? If you have checked the cc's of the combustion chamber and will have less than 9:1, thin is free horsepower.
2. Also, be sure to follow Jeff/Deepinhock's suggestions for installing the intake manifold gasket.
3. Wire brush the head bolts and run a bottoming tap in head bolt holes in the block. The holes get rusty/gunked up and the torque will be wrong if everything isn't cleaned.
4. Find an engine shop with a Wheelabrator shot blaster. Have the exhaust manifolds run through there and then immediately paint them with Eastwood's high heat natural iron paint.
5. Coat the rocker tips, pushrod tips and valve stems with moly grease.

thnx, jack vines


PackardV8

[Swifster]

quote:Originally posted by Dan White

Re-done heads are ready to go with new seals,etc. So that much is already done!

If the heads were done 13 years ago, I'd follow Jim's suggestion. The seals can dry out over that period of time and corrosion can also start on the seats, valves, etc. Better safe than sorry.


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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2074.30)

[Mike Van Veghten]

Info needed...what gaskets are you using...head AND manifold??? None of us know!

And as noted....IF...the heads were new 13 years ago...and THAT'S when the seals were "new"...it IS time for a "currently new" set of seals!

Other than that...follow the manual.

Clean the head bolts, bottom tap the holes in the block, clean the block and head deck. Clean the manifold surface also.

With composition gasket...either dry or a VERY light coat of "Copper Coat". If you use the steel shim gasket, clean dry and use Copper Coat as directed in the "instructions".
Follow the recommended fastener torquing recommendation in the Stude manual.
Be sure to oil BOTH the threads AND under the head of the fastener before installing.
And as has been noted, oil the rocker pads (valve tip) and both ends of the pushrods.

Same basic senario for the manifold.

Mike

[Mike Van Veghten]

ps -

quote:Since I am doing quite a bit of work on the R1 Hawk to get it ready for Lancaster I thought I would swap the heads on it with a set of ported/polished and oversized valve jobs I have had sitting in the garage for about 13 years or so.

"Oversized valve jobs".......that I'd be interested in seeing!

Mike

[Dan White]

I am going out of town on biz and will take pics and post when I return. Thanks!

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

[Chicken Hawk]

Hi Dan,

I think you were asking about the head gaskets more than anything. I agree with what most are saying but on the gaskets: If you are using the beaded steel, all I use is aluminum paint.

If using the composition, I soak them in water for about five to ten minutes, "sling" all the water out you can and put on.

I do not use any type of coating, sealer, etc. If using composition be sure to re-torque and re-set the valve lash after the engine has been warmed up a few times.

Everyone has their own method of doing things and this is just the way I do it and I agree, others doing it differently can be just as good or better.

Ted

quote:Originally posted by Dan White

Since I am doing quite a bit of work on the R1 Hawk to get it ready for Lancaster I thought I would swap the heads on it with a set of ported/polished and oversized valve jobs I have had sitting in the garage for about 13 years or so. Anyone have some tips on the best way to treat the head gaskets and tightening other than what is in the shop manual?

Thanks!

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

[buddymander]

I would spray some WD40 on the chambers and blast some air in the ports to check for valve leakage. No bubbles allowed whatsoever. The seals should be fine. The thing that hurts stem seals is constantly being subjected to extreme heat/cold; not time.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Buddy -

Not so for ALL rubber seals...!

As another says...your car...your money!

Mike