1950 Hood Crest Dent Removal?

[TWChamp]

I bought a brass hood crest off ebay, but it has a couple very minor dents that I'd like to remove before I try to paint the colors back in.
Does anyone know how the front brass crest is attached to the steel backing plate with stud?

If it's glued, then will it pry apart without causing damage? Thanks, Tom

[RadioRoy]

Look to see if the brass edges are rolled over the steel backing/mounting plate.

[(S)]

Anytime you suspect glue on a metal part, just add some heat. Most glue lets go before any damage to the metal.... Even high tech fusor steel adhesive only needs in the 375- 400 degree range. by the way, those were just folded tabs but after 50 years who knows?

[Studebaker Wheel]

May be better and more economical in the long run just to purcahse one of my reproductions. Sold approx 400 with never a complaint or return for $75ea. Limited number remaining. Buy off ebay or just send me a pm:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123452775478

[TWChamp]

I already did buy the new repro, but look at this as a challenge.
The entire edge is flat, not rolled, so I suspect glue is the only possibility. I'll try my Milwaukee heat gun on it.

[RadioRoy]

I don't think there was much going on with adhesives in the auto industry in 1950, with the exception of interiors and fabrics.

I looked at the ones I have. The brass front is rolled over the steel backing, but only rolled/bent by a few degrees. The brass is only bent a few degrees, just enough to capture the steel back. It was probably assembled on a press machine similar to, but not the same as the press that makes pin back slogan buttons. Some ideas:

-heat the brass enough to anneal it and pry the top edge with a duck bill pliers or one of those vise grips with a super wide jaws welded on. Since the whole thing is wedge shaped, loosening the top may provide sufficient clearance to remove the steel backing.

-If the expansion rate of brass is greater than steel (Internet search says it is) maybe heating the brass all over will allow the steel back to fall out.

[TWChamp]

I got it apart by inserting a knife at the notch in the bottom of the V. I think the notch is to allow rain water to drain. It was a tight fit, but no sign of any adhesive. I'll use some good waterproof adhesive to put it back together. I sandblasted the back of the brass and the steel mounting plate, then painted the steel plate with Rustoleum self etching primer. The picture also shows the new one I bought from Richard at South Bend this spring. It will be tough to get my old one looking this nice.

[RadioRoy]

Excellent. Did you take a picture of the dents in the front?

[TWChamp]

Actually the 2 dents were so minor that they may not have showed up on a picture.
They were easy to tap back out by using a flat punch and light hammer taps.

[thunderations]

I think I will just polish the brass and clear it on the 50 Champion 4 door. Give it a little "Bling".