Ring ridge in V8 block

[Jeff T.]

I forgot to mention in my post on checking a block that the ridge in the cylinders while small, is a nail catching one (run your fingertip up the bore and the tip of your nail will catch it) The engine itself sat in a dead 63 wagoneer that was parked for unknown reasons. The transmission was ok, the engine internals looked fine when I pulled the v8 apart. I do not know about the axle. Well the car sat in a field long enough that it got stuck from obvious disuse so when I disassembled it motor the pistons slipped out the top of the bore because of long term compression. Oh this particular engine had a mouse nest in the oil pan and there was still oil in the engine.

At least it was not as bad as the engine in a champ pick up I dismantled. When the truck was wrecked (the road curved, the driver went straight) a valve was still open on one of the cylinders so over the years mice made a nest in that cylinder. There is nothing like an engine full of mouse nests.

Jeff T.

"I'm getting nowhere as fast as I can"
The Replacements.

[Mike Van Veghten]

If I recall about your original question...was it rebuild time or just rering it?

If there is ANY ridge...as far as I'm concerned...it's full rebuild time.
There are many things associated with enough wear to put a ridge into the cylinders. None of them are positive as far as a quicky rebiuld.

To save time and hassle (read that, a poor running engine) later...rebuild now.

Mike

[jackb]

...and if you agree that the Stude blocks were tough (I do), any ridge will suggest many hours of use, oil ??'s, etc....good luck!

[PackardV8]

FWIW, the Studebaker Shop Manual allows .005" wear/taper before recommending boring the block.

Mike is correct in that boring, correctly fitting new pistons and rings is always best science. However, I and many here back in the po'boy days have given it a ball hone, new rings, a valve job and driven it another hunnerd-thou'. Just depends on how much wear and how much in the wallet.

thnx, jack vines

PackardV8

[wally]

Times have changed sinc those Motors Manuals were written, allowing .005 cylinder wall taper. Unless you are building a low-dollar Sunday only car, simply reringing an engine with bores worn this much will result in an engine that is back to square one in short order. I mean, 20k miles or less, and probably it will be an oil pumper again. You've got to ask yourself: Is really it worth all the time-consming effort of teardown, parts cleanup, reinstall etc., just to save a few hundred bucks on new oversized pistons, for a motor that won't last or run as strong? S'why a job done right, is the job worth doing. Of course there are a few exceptions. You might buy an engine that has been in storage, condition unknown. If you tear it down to inspect it internally, and find that tolerances are very close(crank journals & cylinder walls have minimal wear, Zero wear on the camshaft, etc. , then you will succeed in having a sweet running engine when you are done, by simply reringing it and installing new inserts and a valve grind after a thorough cleaning of all parts.. Just My Opinion, based upon my experience.

"You Can't Have Everything--Where Would You Put It?" ---comedian Steven Wright