Cool/Heat: Fan vs Radiator '64 Cruiser with A/C

[jnfweber]

Had a minor "fender bender" when I backed my Trailblazer into the right front fender of my '64 Cruiser, only a slight dent bending the fender, about 12 inches of the front trim "spear" and the "Cruiser" logo. Cost to repair here in Montana $250 for 3 hours body work and 1 hour spraying paint. Then I noticed water was "leaking like a sieve" from 5 sites on the fan side of the radiator-see 1st photo. I don't think the [minor] fender bender caused this as the radiator frame is attached to the car's frame. I noticed there is about a 2 inch "spacer" between the fan blade (which I don't think is the usual factory blade for the Cruiser) and the fan pulley. See 2nd and 3rd photos. I don't think it is a broken front right motor mount (see last photo). I can't see the left front engine mount because of all the accessories in the way (power steering, fuel pump, horn). I doubt if a broken rear motor mount would throw the fan blade into the radiator, so what was the cause?



As a CASO solution, I thought I would take the fan blade and 2 inch spacer off the fan pulley and water pump, without disturbing the seal on the pump, and take the spacer to the local machine shop and have it cut in half, down to 1 inch width, which would give an extra 1 inch clearance between the fan blade and the radiator, when repaired. What do you "experts" think? Any more ideas? I figure the spacer was put behind the fan blade to make it extra close to the air conditioning condenser, which sits in front of the radiator, to provide better air flow, since there is no "shroud" like there in the Hawks and the Avanti's. Any problems anyone can see with my CASO "solution"? Thanks.

[TWChamp]

Your fan is bolted on backwards. This greatly cuts the air flow and the fan clearance.

[wittsend]

Yes, you were blowing hot engine compartment air through the radiator. And at some speed would be approaching near zero air (hot or cold) passing thrugh the radiator. Put the fan on in the proper orientation and you should have all the clearance you need. BTW, removing the spacer and putting the fan on properly would likely have it hitting the pulleys. So, don't remove the spacer! I'm surprize the post wasn't about overheating. But then maybe in Montana - perhaps not.

[TWChamp]

Actually the air was still pulled rearward, but not very efficiently.

[jnfweber]

My error. Put the fan blade on backwards after I changed the water pump about a year ago.

[jnfweber]

Your fan is bolted on backwards. This greatly cuts the air flow and the fan clearance.

Quick fix! Thanks guys, it took about 10 minutes to reverse the fan and put it on correctly. I took some photos and it looks like there will be enough clearance to prevent contact with the radiator, after I get it fixed. One should take photo of part you are removing so you can put it back on correctly.

[TWChamp]

If you fix the radiator yourself, I'd use an EXACTO knife to scrape the area clean and shiny around each hole, then use electrical rosin core solder to close each hole.
I never had good luck with acid core solder.

[jimmijim8]

If you fix the radiator yourself, I'd use an EXACTO knife to scrape the area clean and shiny around each hole, then use electrical rosin core solder to close each hole.
I never had good luck with acid core solder.

I fixed a radiator like that before with rosin core and a Weller soldering gun. Oh yeah. By the way, get a better fan and a fan clutch. Auto Zone sells the fan for bout 35.00 or a bit less. cheers jimmijim