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San Diego Ron
06-03-2018, 04:39 PM
Tried to purchase new front brake shoes but part # keeps bringing up shoes too small for my car. Drums are 10 7/8" across and shoes are 2 1/4" wide but 2" wide shoes only ones offered and don't fit drum. I would like also to replace wheel studs but looks like shoulder has to be cut off, can do that but what keeps new ones in tight, do they need to be crimped or something? Thanks for looking.

RadioRoy
06-03-2018, 04:46 PM
The parts houses are trying to sell you shoes for six cylinder cars.

Have you tried actual/official Studebaker parts vendors, rather than making yourself crazy with local parts stores that haven't seen a Studebaker since before they were born?

studebakervendors.com

StudeRich
06-03-2018, 05:02 PM
To R&R the Drums from the Hubs you MUST use a Swage Cutting Tool to remove the Studs without damage to Hub and Drum and Swage New Studs into the Hub Drum Assy. with a Swagging tool.

These Studs CENTER the Hub to the Drum and on the Rears, to the Axle since the Center Hole is not used for that purpose.

NEW Finned 11" Hub and Drum Assy's ARE available Part #1557400, to save you the trouble IF you had a New or good used "Drum Only" to install.

Knowing this difficult to accomplish task in this Day & Age when no one remembers how, you may be better off replacing the Drums with Good Used or New. ;)

New Front V8 Brake Shoes for 11 Inch Brakes on '54 to '66's are 1560103X1.

http://studebakervendors.com

jimmijim8
06-03-2018, 05:26 PM
Dave Thiebeault has the tools to remove and install new studs You will have to ship your parts to him. The work will be done properly. cheers jimmijim

San Diego Ron
06-04-2018, 11:32 AM
Still trying to figure out what brake shoes I need and don't know how to measure for them. You are saying 11" brakes (what does this mean?), the shoes I have are about 15" long X 2 1/2" wide. Guessing the 11" referees to the distance across the honed surface on the hub the shoes press against...or not! Ordered new wheel studs but they will probably turn out to not be the Swage studs I need (not knowing what they actually look like) my afternoon project is going to be days or weeks to finish up and this is just the front, can't wait to see what problems in store back there.

Warren Webb
06-04-2018, 11:51 AM
My question is why do you feel the need to replace the studs? Now, in regards to the brake shoes, have you searched for a place in or near San Diego that will reline the shoes themselves? I personally have used shops in Long Beach & Riverside that do this. Ordering through a Studebaker vendor may only take a day or two longer & you will get what you need and you will get the expert advise on a project.

San Diego Ron
06-04-2018, 12:23 PM
Studs need replaced because adapter for wire wheels worked loose and destroyed most of threads. looking into machine shop locally to change out studs today, good idea about having shoes relined.

thunderations
06-04-2018, 12:55 PM
So far, very good advice for your front brakes and having a local shop reline your shoes will allow you to ask for the better material that doesn't squeak.
When you get to the rears, use a proper hub puller to get the drum and hub off the axle. It's sometimes a project that will test your patience. There's another recent thread that describes another Hawk that has had the hub stud holes machined and larger studs installed. The drums then were machined so that the larger studs would center the drum instead of having them swagged to the drum.
If your rear drums are in good shape and the studs are not damaged, you may not have to worry about any of this other then using a proper hub puller.

San Diego Ron
06-04-2018, 03:00 PM
Thanks, found local shop to reline shoes and he is going to remove one of studs to see if I purchased correct studs to swagger back on.

StudeRich
06-04-2018, 03:02 PM
Thanks, found local shop to reline shoes and he is going to remove one of studs to see if I purchased correct studs to swagger back on.

Isn't THAT what a Drunk does? :lol:

San Diego Ron
06-04-2018, 03:42 PM
That will be me if I don't get this stuff straightened out. A Swage cutter to remove old Swaged stud and a Swagging tool to install new studs, and me in a drunken swagger after brake shop tells me drum is out of legal limits.

JimKB1MCV
06-04-2018, 04:00 PM
Your brake shop has done you a great big favor. You do not, repeat not, want to use worn out brake drums.
Do you have the shop and parts manual for your Hawk? If not it may be time to think about getting them.
Good luck and try to maintain a sense of humor.

thunderations
06-04-2018, 05:20 PM
Main reason for being a CASO, (Cheap A** Studebaker Owner) is to get parts as cheap as possible to offset your escalating liquor tab.

That will be me if I don't get this stuff straightened out. A Swage cutter to remove old Swaged stud and a Swagging tool to install new studs, and me in a drunken swagger after brake shop tells me drum is out of legal limits.

bensherb
06-05-2018, 02:36 AM
Isn't THAT what a Drunk does? :lol:

I believe you're thinking stagger: to walk or move unsteadily, as if about to fall.

Swagger: to walk or behave in a very confident and typically arrogant or aggressive way.

rkapteyn
06-05-2018, 10:29 AM
It looks like you did not get any answers to your question.
The front brake shoes are an industry standard #177.
The 1963/up shoes have holes to attach the self adjusters.
Below is an eBay link to ridiculous priced shoes but you get a look.
The non asbestos lining used on the shoes commonly sold by vendors is very hard
and need a lot of extra pressure to stop.If your have power brakes it maybe adequate but you would be better to have your shoes relined with old asbestos lining , sometimes available on eBay.
The asbestos lining is medium gray and the commonly used non asbestos lining is a light beige color.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Bendix-R177-Riveted-Brake-Shoes-Checker-Packard-Studebaker-Commander-Hawk-Lark/282976401069?epid=18013308073&hash=item41e2b536ad:g:3g8AAOSwEOpaBQki&vxp=mtr

Here is what a swedge cutter looks like.https://goodson.com/products/swedge-tools


https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/swedge-cutting-tool

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm

San Diego Ron
06-11-2018, 12:37 PM
Shoes have been relined and unable to locate correct size studs drilled out drum from the 5/8" to match the 11/16" studs that shop said he could Swage.
7313173132

gordr
06-11-2018, 01:15 PM
Rivet holes along only one edge of the linings" That's odd. You have 11 inch drums, which are normal for a V8 Studebaker. That refers to the inside diameter of the drum. The FMSA number for the shoes is 177, and they are no longer made for the aftermarket. Save your cores, people!

Did you have the drums machined after installing the new studs? If not, there is a risk of the drum being slightly eccentric, which can play hob with the self-adjuster mechanism.

San Diego Ron
06-14-2018, 04:32 PM
Well I did it now, drilled out holes too big for them to be pressed in and swaged, now I get to start over from scratch by trying to find good used hub with 11" drum that accepts 2 1/4" Wide shoes.

TWChamp
06-14-2018, 06:14 PM
Well I did it now, drilled out holes too big for them to be pressed in and swaged, now I get to start over from scratch by trying to find good used hub with 11" drum that accepts 2 1/4" Wide shoes.

Can you have a machine shop drill new holes between the old holes?

San Diego Ron
06-14-2018, 09:33 PM
Probably not worth doing that, brake guy told me drums are worn too much to machine again, have reached legal limit.

whitehawk759
06-15-2018, 03:29 PM
Probably not worth doing that, brake guy told me drums are worn too much to machine again, have reached legal limit.

Have you considered Turner front discs, they work great.

San Diego Ron
06-15-2018, 05:10 PM
Not after just spending $80 to have shoes relined. Car only gets driven 100 or so miles a year so disc brakes not a big priority but thanks, it would be the way to go.

RadioRoy
06-15-2018, 06:23 PM
There should be some V-8 front hub/drum assemblies around from other cars that have had disk brake conversions.

I just found a pair of V-8 hubs/drums in my parts pile. One has right hand threads and one has left hand threads. They are not finned. You can send me an email if you are interested (address is in my profile) as I prefer email over PM.

San Diego Ron
06-18-2018, 08:15 PM
Welded studs to hub and going to see how that works for now, thanks for offers for replacement drums/hubs but until I can come up with ones closer to home we'll see if this works.
73316

RadioRoy
06-18-2018, 10:18 PM
How did the runout look?

The drum has to be concentric with the center line of the hub. There's probably a spec for it in the shop manual.

I would also check the hub/drum assembled balance. It seems like many finned drums have fair size weights on them and un-clocking them from their original position/relation to the hub might upset the balance.

Harbor Freight has some little bubble balancers that people say work on car drum/hub assemblies.

There was a gentleman a few years back who finally cured a long term vibration problem in his Champ truck by balancing the hub/drum assemblies.