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Pepse
05-27-2018, 12:43 AM
I seem to be missing some posts.

Anyway I have been having issues with the ignition switch. When trying to start the car ('57 Scotsman) it turns over maybe 4 times then the starter disengages. I keep trying and the same thing happens turns over kicks out turns over kicks out. This is not the original switch it is from a '62 Lark. The original did the same thing. In fact when I turn the switch to start sometimes the idiot lights come on sometimes they don't. Just to be sure there is nothing unusual with the wiring. Also, is it possible that I need the switch in the dash instead of hanging down? When I jump the solenoid I sometimes have the same problem. But it will usually start.

Later. Pepse.

StudeRich
05-27-2018, 01:39 AM
You have a Bad Bendix Drive on your Starter, THAT is causing the "kicking out", not the Ign. Sw.
Have you checked and or reset the Ignition timing with a Timing Light to make it start properly?

It could also have worn contacts that "sometimes" connect depending on how far you turn the key, if that is all it is, it will last quite a long time yet by learning how to turn it when it is properly mounted.

To mount the Sw. in the dash, you will need a New break-proof Billet Aluminum Ign. Sw. BEZEL from a Studebaker Vendor, to replace your broken Pot Metal or lost Bezel.

Pepse
05-27-2018, 09:55 AM
I will recheck the timing. I have 2 or 3 extra starters to try if the timing is okay. I still have the pot metal Bezel. I took it out last winter when I thought the original ig. switch was bad.

TWChamp
05-27-2018, 10:30 AM
My first thought was the same as what Rich posted, but when you said the idiot lights sometimes don't come on, then I started to wonder if you have a bad connection. A poor connection might let it fire just enough to kick out the drive, but then loose spark again. I made this spark tester to make sure the coil delivers a consistent hot blue spark. In fact I will be using it on my Land Cruiser this morning because yesterday at the end of my 20 mile drive my car started acting up. It seems fuel related, but I also want to check the ignition first.

72775

Pepse
05-28-2018, 11:29 AM
TWChamp, I did check the spark and it was a nice blue in color.

Later.

Pepse
06-17-2018, 09:38 PM
I finally got back out to work on the Stude today. I am 99% sure it is the ignition switch. I turn the key to the ON position; required jiggling the switch to get the idiot lights to come on. Connected my Sears jumper thing to the Solenoid and the battery "+" and pumped the gas and it started but didn't stay running long enough at first so I repeated starting it about 3 more times until the gas was flowing into the carb better. The bendix never kicked out during this procedure. As in it didn't kick out during the starting process. Disengaged as it normally would after the engine is running.

So, it appears this is finished. Well I gotta order a new ignition switch. But that's okay.

Now to post some other issues.

Later.

Lou Van Anne
06-17-2018, 10:03 PM
Please let us know what switch you find/use and how it works out......
I finally got back out to work on the Stude today. I am 99% sure it is the ignition switch. I turn the key to the ON position; required jiggling the switch to get the idiot lights to come on. Connected my Sears jumper thing to the Solenoid and the battery "+" and pumped the gas and it started but didn't stay running long enough at first so I repeated starting it about 3 more times until the gas was flowing into the carb better. The bendix never kicked out during this procedure. As in it didn't kick out during the starting process. Disengaged as it normally would after the engine is running.

So, it appears this is finished. Well I gotta order a new ignition switch. But that's okay.

Now to post some other issues.

Later.

Pepse
06-17-2018, 11:39 PM
I plan on buying a new one through Studebaker Intl as the one in the car now is from a '62 Lark, which has proven to be no better than the original one I took out. I don't feel a used one from anywhere would be worth it.

Later. Pepse.

TWChamp
06-18-2018, 06:08 AM
When I bought my 50 Champion 4 years ago, it also had similar problems. I found a loose nut on the back of the ignition switch. The loose nut caused a poor connection, which caused the stud and nut to heat up enough to damage the threads. I was able to snug the nut, but couldn't remove it to install a new nut. It has been fine since I tightened it, but I was hoping to remove the terminal to wire brush it then put a dab of grease on it.

Pepse
06-18-2018, 09:50 AM
I will look and see if any nuts are loose and see if it helps.

Later. Pepse.

Pepse
08-22-2018, 01:05 PM
In regards to the ignition switch. Yeah, the switch is worn out but being that the car tends to start and run in a few seconds of starting I will deal with it.

Later.