No difference any more, really. The bonded's work fine, and last a little longer, but the riveted linings will wear for years, since none of US are lame drivers!! The thing I found out a while back was to ask for the Raybestos red box, because the red box shoes were asbestos (yeah, the GOOD stuff!), but the blue box was the regular, compressed walnut shells or whatever stuff. Don't worry about wearing out drums, etc. These parts last almost forever. What kills brake drums, brake linings, and brake rotors? Two-footed drivers with one foot on the gas, one on the brake, and the radio turned up loud enough to overcome the metal-to-metal grinding coming from the wheels. If you inspect your brakes every other oil change, you'll never run 'em into the ground!
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Had bonded ones start to come off, probably real old, got new drilled linings from ebay and had machine shop rivet them on. They were hard to get remaining shoes off. -
If you need to inspect the brakes every other oil change, you must drive with one foot on the brake pedal, or don't change your oil often enough.
If I can't get over 50,000 miles on brakes shoes, then something is wrong.Comment
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I had a bonded one come apart on me once. I'm not lead footed, or lead braked.Comment
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I also had a car with bonded shoes, and they fell off after the car set unused for one year. I prefer rivets over glue.Comment
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That's been my experience also. It always seems to happen on the rear shoes, too.Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
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I also had a bonded shoe lining come apart on the rear. Replaced them all with riveted linings.Comment
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Back when I was in the auto parts business I always understood that it always took a better grade of lining to take a rivet rather than glue. But that was when asbestos was the type of brake material in use. Today's non-asbestos compounds may be different in that regard.Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.Comment
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Gun, that is why I try to only purchase NOS parts......and most of our vendors still have plenty of stock!!Originally posted by Gunslinger View PostComment
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I have a question about riveted linings. I have two boxes of drilled linings that I traded for four Lark doors. I didn't care for the trade when I made it years ago, just wanted to help the guy out and, I didn't need the doors either. Fast forward to today, the combination of the rock hard bonded linings available today, that wound't stop my old cars and the fact that I have these linings, doing my own might be a good marriage. The only shoes that I have available for relining have bonded linings. What is the best way to separate the linings from the shoes?Comment
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Why not give the shoes to a known re-liner and have the shoes done with rivets?Originally posted by Hallabutt View PostComment
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A local brake shop bakes the shoes to remove the bonded linings. I don't know the temp, but I'd guess 400 to 500 degrees.
I used my Dremel to make a 2 step drill bit so I could drill the countersunk holes in my Model A woven brake linings.
I also used a drill stop on the bit to be sure each hole was the same depth.
I put a drop of oil on the rivet tool for each rivet I roll over.
The oil ensures a nice smooth roll without splitting the edge.Comment
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