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Lower C-body door hinge hardware

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  • Body / Glass: Lower C-body door hinge hardware

    Hi all. I started hanging the doors on my 60 Hawk this morning, and ran into an issue with the lower hinge to door hardware. The original bolts had all broken off, on disassembly, so I haven't got anything to reference. The new bolts that I ordered are 5/16" 24, as specified in the body parts book. They will not fit the lower hinge, or the threads in the door. They appear to be 3/16", but the only reference to that size in the parts book are for a 63, or 64, rear door to body. I couldn't find them at SI, or Studebaker Parts .com, but haven't tried to call them yet. They may have a solution. Has anybody else had this problem?
    Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

  • #2
    My 64 gt was 5/16 and I just went to the hardware store and got them. In fact the door to hinge bolts you can use a regular bolt as it is lower than the door card so they wont be in the way.

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    • #3
      I bought several of those hinge screws, a couple years ago, for spares. When I finally got round to using them recently, I discovered they were a bit tight in the threads, and the Phillips' screw head was not quite a match for my large screwdriver. I believe the threads are 5/16" x 24, but maybe something was lost in the metric conversion.

      I found Snap-On makes a screwdriver that fits those screw heads perfectly, and ordered one, for about $25. The OEM screw heads are regular old Phillips. As for stripped holes, there is plenty of room on the backside to put a nut, and tighten it down that way. Biggest problem is, the Phillips heads are funneled, and fit into a mating surface on the doors. The funnel shape keeps them centered. With a regular bolt, you lose that advantage.

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      • #4
        I've seen two styles of Phillips head screws, but can't recall the correct name for the second one that looks like a Phillips, but is a little different fit. I just copied this chart from a Google search, but I didn't see the name I was looking for.

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        • #5
          The most common one that we think of as a Phillips is a Posidrive.
          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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          • #6
            On my '62 those bolts are just plain old 5/16 - 24 oval head philips. I had to drill a couple out, but had none to replace them with so I used a standard hex bolt with a conical washer.

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            • #7
              Dick Datson suggested to use hex head bolt washers and lock washers.
              Leave the bolts loose enough to move and align the door and than tighten the bolts. there is plenty of room behind the door panels.

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              • #8
                TWChamp,

                Its the Pozidriv

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                • #9
                  Thanks for all the good info. It turns out that the problem was just operator error. The lower hinges had the old star washers imbedded in the holes, and I has painted over them. After a closer look, I was able to drive them out from the back. After they were out of the holes, the 5/16" bolts fit, and I chased the threads in the door to 5/16 -24, and all is good. I have the doors hung, but will need to spend a little time adjusting gaps. I had a new set of the door hinge screws, and they fit nicely. Thanks again for all of the suggestions.
                  Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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