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Stainless Restoration #9, Wheelcover. Wow! Rare!
Copyright 2008 Dale McPhearson, all rights reserved. Published with permission.
This time we will do a 53-55 wheelcover. This was picked because it is plain enough to not clutter up the pictures. The demo is mostly about using preferred directions of sanding and buffing. Therefore, just pretend the cover has a dent and the sander and buffer are turning.
As was stated before in this series, my way is just my way and if you find a better way, don't worry about it. Be secure in your ways. I find it safer to use buffers and sanders that are not turning. You may wish to turn yours on.
I have made special tools for some of these jobs because in the long run they save me time and effort to get a good result.
This type wheelcover is easy to dent, even with the palm of the hand. When you are too manly putting them back on and hit them on the cone you may not be pleased. If they have PITS in them or damage near the edges they are not repairable for show. Sanding out many PITS generally weakens such a flat surface. A few pits can be bumped out with a punch. I use the handle end of the hammer to tap the punch lightly.
The doubled metal lip makes dent removal impossible in that area.
This hammer can also be used on portions of other wheelcovers as they have similar contours. Sometimes a mildly dented cover can be made more presentable for a driver with just dent removal and no sanding or buffing.
The hammer is made by welding a 3 1/4" freeze plug onto a light hammer and then trimming the vertical face dimension to 1 3/4". The trimming is done to make it easier to use and better visibility.
The hammer is only for imaginary dents that go in. Don't use it for imaginary dents that go out. The contour is wrong.
DON'T DO THIS. A body hammer will leave dents at the side edges because the face is not convex enough in shape. The body hammer face is generally too small in area anyhow. The force to straighten should be over a larger area for this thickness and shape metal.
You can do this if you want, I don't care. Ok for small out dents.
But it won't take much to give you an another inward dent to practice taking out.
This is a large l
Stainless Restoration #9, Wheelcover. Wow! Rare!
Copyright 2008 Dale McPhearson, all rights reserved. Published with permission.
This time we will do a 53-55 wheelcover. This was picked because it is plain enough to not clutter up the pictures. The demo is mostly about using preferred directions of sanding and buffing. Therefore, just pretend the cover has a dent and the sander and buffer are turning.
As was stated before in this series, my way is just my way and if you find a better way, don't worry about it. Be secure in your ways. I find it safer to use buffers and sanders that are not turning. You may wish to turn yours on.
I have made special tools for some of these jobs because in the long run they save me time and effort to get a good result.
This type wheelcover is easy to dent, even with the palm of the hand. When you are too manly putting them back on and hit them on the cone you may not be pleased. If they have PITS in them or damage near the edges they are not repairable for show. Sanding out many PITS generally weakens such a flat surface. A few pits can be bumped out with a punch. I use the handle end of the hammer to tap the punch lightly.
The doubled metal lip makes dent removal impossible in that area.
This hammer can also be used on portions of other wheelcovers as they have similar contours. Sometimes a mildly dented cover can be made more presentable for a driver with just dent removal and no sanding or buffing.
The hammer is made by welding a 3 1/4" freeze plug onto a light hammer and then trimming the vertical face dimension to 1 3/4". The trimming is done to make it easier to use and better visibility.
The hammer is only for imaginary dents that go in. Don't use it for imaginary dents that go out. The contour is wrong.
DON'T DO THIS. A body hammer will leave dents at the side edges because the face is not convex enough in shape. The body hammer face is generally too small in area anyhow. The force to straighten should be over a larger area for this thickness and shape metal.
You can do this if you want, I don't care. Ok for small out dents.
But it won't take much to give you an another inward dent to practice taking out.
This is a large l
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