PDA

View Full Version : Body: Front fender mounting cushions?



1953champcoupe
03-01-2018, 10:22 PM
Even though it was less than a year since I disassembled this car (53 Coupe) I can't remember if there were rubber cushions between the frame and the forward part of the fender:(

I am guessing that there weren't any since I saved the bolts and found no rubber cushions or remnants of them but I used fire (torch) to get lots of rusty bolts loose and it's possible that they burned up.

I could find no mention of a cushion in the parts book but if I missed it you can have a laugh on me.

Thanks

Marv

bezhawk
03-02-2018, 08:57 AM
There usually is a steel shim...quite large as it spans two bolts in width. Not every fender has them though.

in2deep
03-02-2018, 10:09 AM
​Shims only on my '53, 3 on each side.

1953champcoupe
03-02-2018, 06:58 PM
I don't remember any steel shims and to be honest not sure if there were rubber
ones, I tried to keep track of items as I removed them, and I have the rusty fine
threaded bolts that affixed the fender to the frame, not sure whether to sand blast
'em and use them or just use new bolts.

Thanks for all of the replies!!

Jeff_H
03-02-2018, 07:24 PM
Stack of washers on core support "ears" and flat steel shim plates on the fender apron.

There are lots of posts on getting things aligned. Fenders seem to be about the last. Get doors to fit so gaps to rear fender are parallel. Hood centered and correct gap at back. Hood must be adjusted with rubber strip on the cowl. Then the fenders last.

I had my driver door off about 3 times over the years making improvements. The rubber shim strip on the A post that fender flange butts against may need different thickness left vs right or even top vs bottom to get the door front gap to fender good. On my car, seemed like one side the distance from A to B pillar different than the other so I had a thicker rubber shim one side vs the other. Originally assembly I had the same and could never get enough gap at the back w/o the front rubbing. Had to buy a roll of rubber sheet to make my own compared to the ones available from vendors (too thick).

The shim stack at the front of the fender apron will tweak the fender gap at the back and also affects the hood fit to the grill somewhat. You can bow out or in the fender to affect it lining up with the door (top to bottom) by shims at the front.

Plan on having a lot of fun with the front grill assembly! There are lots of posts about that too. Common problem is too much gap between bottom of the hood and top of the grill panel.

1953champcoupe
03-02-2018, 09:46 PM
Jeff_H thanks for that info, I kept the original rubber shims (well part of them) for the fender/cowl area and noticed they were different just like you said two on one side and one on the other, and I wasn't smart enough to note which side went where as I disassembled. At this point I won't worry about the "stack or lack of stack" at the front of the frame. At this point I just mounted the fender in preparation of replacing the fender vents, I've gotten some great pictures and measurements for that in another post but decided to mount the fender close to where it should be and then install the vents and I have good measurements as a starting point. Right now the doors fit the jamb pretty good, I've tweaked both sides (the floor was junk and the drivers A Pillar was in another state) now that all the floor repairs are done. I guess with your comments I should "jam it", paint everywhere you can readily access then assemble, adjust, adjust, adjust and then paint it? That won't be next week:)

Thanks, your comments helped as did the other comments!!

Alan
03-03-2018, 03:26 PM
On my 53K the stack of spacers was about .550". When putting it back together I made a couple of .500" spacers out of 1" bar stock aluminum and cut 1" diameter pads from .125" urethane. Then whittled each aluminum spacer down to where the best fit for the fender to cowl fit. It bugged me, since that stack of washers from the factory looked so ungainly.

1953champcoupe
03-04-2018, 01:16 PM
On my 53K the stack of spacers was about .550". When putting it back together I made a couple of .500" spacers out of 1" bar stock aluminum and cut 1" diameter pads from .125" urethane. Then whittled each aluminum spacer down to where the best fit for the fender to cowl fit. It bugged me, since that stack of washers from the factory looked so ungainly.

I like that Idea, did you put urethane on both sides of the aluminum spacer, just thinking of the galvanic properties of aluminum and steel. I don't like the idea of a stack of "washers" either.

Alan
03-04-2018, 02:54 PM
Yes Urethane on both sides. Don't like squeaks either.

1953champcoupe
03-04-2018, 10:57 PM
I didn't have any 1/2 aluminum, but did have some quarter inch, I had some rubber material that I purchased at a swap meet (and I wish I would have purchased several pieces of it) I used it both above and below the aluminum spacer and have came fairly close to what I need, thanks for all of the good ideas, I can't imagine doing this without forums like this.

stude dude
03-05-2018, 08:07 AM
Only steel shims and washers were used by the factory to mount the radiator saddle/front fenders to the front chassis forks. Using rubber in this area leads to problems.

1953champcoupe
03-05-2018, 10:21 AM
Only steel shims and washers were used by the factory to mount the radiator saddle/front fenders to the front chassis forks. Using rubber in this area leads to problems.

Maybe I didn't burn up the rubber shims if they weren't there:) That makes sense, I should have looked closer at the parts book and I will be going back to study it a little better. Sometimes the actually parts list/numbers aren't where I think they should be :(

christophe
03-05-2018, 12:01 PM
Here is the page from the 59-64 part manual, if it might help.
Nice day to all.

1953champcoupe
03-05-2018, 06:02 PM
Christophe I printed that picture, if it's in my parts manual I've missed it. THANKS!!

bezhawk
03-05-2018, 08:26 PM
It still doesn't show the fender mounting shims which were not part of the main body assembly, and those subsequent shims.

christophe
03-06-2018, 03:31 AM
Christophe I printed that picture, if it's in my parts manual I've missed it. THANKS!!

You're welcome, Marv.

christophe
03-06-2018, 03:33 AM
It still doesn't show the fender mounting shims which were not part of the main body assembly, and those subsequent shims.

I think I got them on this page. But, as there is no illustration, I'm not 100% sure.

bezhawk
03-06-2018, 08:09 AM
I would say the 298340, and 298341 parts are the correct shims. Thank you Christophe.

Alan
03-06-2018, 12:40 PM
Interesting to see that they were 1/8" and 1/4", That is why they were stacked along with a piece of tire carcase. They were square plates and shade tree looking.

1953champcoupe
03-06-2018, 04:05 PM
I didn't mind cutting quarter inch aluminum in the band saw, guess I will
have to cut some quarter and eighth inch steel shims now:)

christophe
03-07-2018, 04:00 AM
Here are the details for the illustration, I forgot to include them earlier.
Nice day to all.

barry gibbons
03-08-2018, 09:58 PM
If you can send me your email I can send you some pictures of my 54 champion shims on frame

alpayed
03-09-2018, 04:14 AM
Only steel shims and washers were used by the factory to mount the radiator saddle/front fenders to the front chassis forks. Using rubber in this area leads to problems.
Hi Chris, could you elaborate on "leads to problems"
This is the mounts on the purple hawk, I did mount the body a bit higher to give hood clearance.
Have not had issues yet?
I put rubber and a steel washer either side of all the body mounts so the bolts are totally isolated.
It is as quiet as a mouse.
7089070891

Allan