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old guy
02-10-2018, 05:16 PM
i have a 63 stude trk with a 289 motor it has a 3speed of trans at present. what is available to put an automatic trans behind the 289?

mbstude
02-10-2018, 07:02 PM
Both Fairborn Studebaker and Myers Studebaker make and sell adapter kits to installed a GM automatic.

PackardV8
02-10-2018, 07:11 PM
Define how you plan to use the truck. The Studebaker/Borg-Warner Powershift is the best value/performance automatic. If you're handy, know your way around a U-Pik, it's possible to swap in a GM TH700R4 and have both dig and cruise, albiet for more dollars.

jack vines

thunderations
02-10-2018, 07:49 PM
Easiest conversion would be to install a complete Studebaker automatic with all the linkages and what-evers from a donor vehicle or from someone doing a conversion to an AOD. Don't forget that the rear end gears need changing too or you will have a stump puller with no top end. You will need to use a steering column made for an automatic or devise a floor shift also. Someone is wanting your Stick/OD, so just start asking around. Might find someone to swap with.

Lynn
02-10-2018, 09:48 PM
You are not too far from me. I am in Central OK. I have a DG 200 coming out of a 53 Commander behind a 232. Trans works but leaks worse than bad. I will be pulling it, and you can have it for free. Even better, if your current three speed is servicable, and if you would consider a trade that included your flywheel, bell housing, clutch parts and tranny, I would come to you and deliver the auto.
At the very least you will need to have it re-sealed. I have not had it at highway speeds, so can't vouch for how well it performs. Just know it works find puttering around town from time to time. Just leaks like you would not believe. Personally, I would not trust it without having a qualified auto trans tech go through it. You may be braver than me.

PM me if interested. Won't be coming out til the spring.

Having said all of that..... if I were putting an auto trans in a 63 truck with a 289, I would spring for the Chevy adapter, and buy one of the MANY available 4l60E transmisisons available out of a 95 or later Chevy/GMC pick up or suburban. Good working transmissions can be had for less than $500 all day long. I paid $350 for a GM goodwrench reman trans that was only in the truck for 6 months when the truck was wrecked. You will have to purchase a stand alone controller ($600) and a tps set up ($70) and figure out how to run your speedo. Still cheaper than buying a built 700R4, which is a pain because if you don't get the TV cable adjusted just right, you will likely burn it up. Also, you have to mickey mouse a way to utilize the lock up torque converter, and all the ways I have see involve some weird compromise. On mine, I can program the converter to lock up at any speed I want. Just my two cents. Your mileage may vary. You will find lots of opinions, with most everyone justifiying why they chose the route they did.

Best of luck to you regardless of what you decide.

Lynn

bensherb
02-10-2018, 10:17 PM
Both Fairborn Studebaker and Myers Studebaker make and sell adapter kits to installed a GM automatic.

There's also Bendtsen's, and some old Levque adapters floating around to fit a GM trans to the Stude engine.

Here's one I've been working on making today. Since the later GM transmissions were never used with front mount engines, and I've seen several broken bell housings/cases I'm adding the rear engine mount to the adapter, considering the Stude engine is 200lbs heavier than the Chevy engine. Hence the outrigger/ears; none of the commonly available adapters I've seen makes a provision for a rear engine mount.
70323

345 DeSoto
02-10-2018, 10:47 PM
"Since the later GM transmissions were never used with front mount engines, and I've seen several broken bell housings/cases"...


I don't think that's entirely true. I have installed 200 4R transmissions behind NUMEROUS front mount V8's and never had a transmission mount...except a mount on the tail shaft mounting. As a matter of fact, GM NEVER used a transmission mount on ANY of their late model automatic transmissions, except on the tail shafts.

Lynn
02-11-2018, 12:05 AM
I think what Rick is referring to by "front mount" is that the Chevys, after 1957 have the engine mounts mid engine instead of up at the very front of the motor, as in 55-57.
With the mounts mid engine, it doesn't put nearly as much stress on the engine / trans connection.

PackardV8
02-11-2018, 11:49 AM
Yes, agree, there are advantages to using the 4L60E, but lowest cost is not usually one of them.


Still cheaper than buying a built 700R4, which is a pain because if you don't get the TV cable adjusted just right, you will likely burn it up. Also, you have to mickey mouse a way to utilize the lock up torque converter, and all the ways I have see involve some weird compromise.I'd respectfully disagree with the above. When I've priced out both, the TH700R4 is usually the least costly path to an overdrive automatic; that's IF one can still be found. They are no longer as readily available in the U-Piks, but they're there. The TV cable is simple to adjust and detailed directions are readily available everywhere. The lock-up converter is also simple to actuate and again, instructions are readily available. BTDT in my '65 Avanti.


Just my two cents. Your mileage may vary. You will find lots of opinions, with most everyone justifiying why they chose the route they did. For true, and the 4L60E worked well for you. But then, many here recommend doing the swap keeping the SBC/LS engine in front of the 4L60E and getting rid of all that annoying Studebaker stuff and have what they consider very good logic for doing so.

Back to choices and reasons; I had a ride in a Stude pickup the owner had built up, a 289" with semi-dished pistons and everything else to R1 specs, a Powershift transmission and a 3.07 rear axle. The owner always starts in first gear and manually shifts to second and third. He doesn't consider it any problem at all and loves that it's all Stude. Performance was good and RPMs on the highway were not obtrusive.

Your final results will depend on your personal preferences and pocketbook, but there are myriad methods of getting to automatic.

jack vines

Lynn
02-11-2018, 12:26 PM
All good points Jack. When I said "Still cheaper than buying a built 700R4..." I should have stated that FOR ME at that particular time, it was. I could not find a deal on a 700R4. Like you said, getting harder to find.
Of course, my experience shapes my opinion, and this one worked out very well for me. That is also why I noted that most opinions are, at least to some extent, a justification of why a particular route was taken.

One thing I forgot to mention was that this trans was going in a 68 El Camino modified to haul 8000 plus pounds, which I have done several times.

Would be nice to hear from the OP. Are we talking Transtar or Champ? Do yo know what rear gear you have right now? Do you want/need overdrive?

bensherb
02-12-2018, 01:58 AM
I think what Rick is referring to by "front mount" is that the Chevys, after 1957 have the engine mounts mid engine instead of up at the very front of the motor, as in 55-57.
With the mounts mid engine, it doesn't put nearly as much stress on the engine / trans connection.

Exactly, and the Studebaker 289 in my car has it's mounts at the front of the engine like the pre 1958 Chevy plus one under the bell housing. Those pre '58 Chevys had rear mounts on the belhousing and the trans just floated out there in space, like the Stude. The late GM automatics have no bell housing to put a rear mount under, so the rear of my engine will be supported buy the same cross member that supports it now but from the rear engine flange instead of the belhousing. I'll still add the tailshaft mount to support the trans as well.

RadioRoy
02-12-2018, 11:28 AM
You will need to use a steering column made for an automatic or devise a floor shift also. .

I have no experience with trucks, but on the cars, the automatic transmission selector is basically the same as the stick second to third gear linkage. It's possible to modify the stick column to make it an automatic column by changing some internal parts and the part where the gear selector lever attaches. I went the other way in my 56 wagon, modifying the column from automatic to stick.

fritztheted
02-13-2018, 07:16 AM
Does someone happen ton have the Chevybaker bellhousing ? (1563724) I have the Chevy 6 194 engine and the bw-t35 transmission. I need this bellhousing for my 1965 Daytona in Germany.

wittsend
02-14-2018, 02:05 PM
I've done what Jack Vines refers to as the "Pik U" trans swap. In my case my car ('64) already had a McKinnon (Chevy engine) drivetrain swapped. Basically it is a time or money thing. I had more of the former than the latter. Anyway, it took looking under a LOT of cars over a number of trips to Pick Your Part 50% off sales, but I found a somewhat recently rebuilt 700R4 and paid all of $70 out the door including the convertor. I even had C-4 from my Turbo Pinto swap to send back as a core.

The same yards provided a trans cooler ($11), floor shift ($15), drive shaft that fit without cutting ($20). The internet is repleat with the TV cable configuration. With calipers and a protractor I adapted a GM throttle body arm to my Edelbrock carburetor. They also make a kit but at $125 it was not the CASO thing to do. Anyway, it all worked.

Frankly if one swaps the trans the vehicle is no longer original. So, it seems simpler to me to just swap to the Chevy engine too given the cost of the adapter. To each their own. I like the challange and I like to fabricate, adapt, tinker - and I'm frugal too. A 700R4 conversion for right about $125 is what made it work for me. It represented 10% of what I paid for the car. I couldn't see putting a $3,000+ trans swap into a $1,250 car.

old guy
02-27-2018, 09:13 AM
let me know when you pull it maybe we can work something out.

Miloburnz
12-02-2018, 02:17 PM
I have no experience with trucks, but on the cars, the automatic transmission selector is basically the same as the stick second to third gear linkage. It's possible to modify the stick column to make it an automatic column by changing some internal parts and the part where the gear selector lever attaches. I went the other way in my 56 wagon, modifying the column from automatic to stick.

I have a 60 lark that is 3 speed manual and intend to fit an automatic , i assumed there would be enough movement on the 2nd to 3rd lever after comparing it with a the BW automatic on a car i have but its just the reverse i am not sure how to make it so it cannot be selected accidentally, that is assuming on a Studebaker you need to pull the lever in to move it into reverse.

swvalcon
12-02-2018, 02:50 PM
You don't always have to pay big money for 700r4's. Got one from a guy I knew that junked car for scrap for $200. He called and said he had one that looked new with a new converter and all he got as a core was $200 and did I want it. Hell Yes. I got the trans with converter, Rad. and drive shaft for two bills. Still looking for a place to put it.

StudeRich
12-02-2018, 03:25 PM
Does someone happen ton have the Chevybaker bellhousing ? (1563724) I have the Chevy 6 194 engine and the bw-t35 transmission. I need this bellhousing for my 1965 Daytona in Germany.

The Studebaker 1965-'66 Studes used a Borg Warner T-96 on the "194" and a T-86 with Overdrive on the GM "230" and "283" V8, since I do not know what this T-35 IS, it may not fit a Stude/Jeep Wagoneer/Checker Cab Bellhousing for a GM Engine. :ohmy:

Studebakercenteroforegon
12-02-2018, 03:35 PM
The Studebaker 1965-'66 Studes used a Borg Warner T-96 on the "194" and a T-86 with Overdrive on the GM "230" and "283" V8, since I do not know what this T-35 IS, it may not fit a Stude/Jeep Wagoneer/Checker Cab Bellhousing for a GM Engine. :ohmy:

He may be referring to a Model 35 automatic transmission, as used in ‘63 (except very early ‘63) and later six cylinder cars - light duty.

Dwain G.
12-02-2018, 05:38 PM
T-35 is the automatic used behind six cylinder models beginning in 1963. They have their own special aluminum bell housing because the T-35 bolt pattern is different.

bensherb
12-02-2018, 05:53 PM
As for a shifter when swapping from manual to GM auto. I used the 1'st/reverse arm on the manual column, that way you pull the shift lever tward you as is normal with an automatic trans column shifter. I used one of the stock manual trans shift rods, I think it was the 1st gear one but am not positive, and connected it to the stock 4L60 trans arm. It works fine. True there is no shifter gate to keep you from accidently going into reverse, or a neutral/park start safety, but I did build a starter lockout circuit so you can't start the engine without your foot on the brake.

Down the road a bit, when I install my rack and pinion, I'll either replace the column/shifter with a GM type tilt unit or rebuild the stock column to an auto trans version with a proper shifter gate and neutral/park start switch.

StudeRich
12-02-2018, 06:37 PM
Ok, right IF we are talking about an Automatic here, the '63 and '64 Models used the Aluminum Case, lightweight Borg Warner Flight-O-Matic Model AS-30 and -35.

The '65S & '66S's used other versions: AS98-35, AS44-35, AS42-8 and AS46-35.

rkapteyn
12-03-2018, 12:22 PM
The trucks and Zip vans used a vacuum modulator instead of solid linkages on the Borg Warner Automatics.