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58 Hawk
12-19-2017, 10:18 AM
is it possible and legal to obtain a reproduced serial plate for the door post ? mine has two many rivets after being removed and reinstalled
will use same serial number of course
Joe

TWChamp
12-19-2017, 10:39 AM
About a year ago I thought someone in Australia was making repro plates.

studegary
12-19-2017, 12:13 PM
I have worked around this with a sheet of stainless or even aluminum cut to size, the correct decal and having the numbers deeply engraved (rather than stamped).

swvalcon
12-19-2017, 12:40 PM
As TWchamp said someone from down under was building them and they looked just like factory with your number already on it. Legal maybe -maybe not if you asked some clown at your DMV But glue it on with some 3-m metal adhesive and don't tell anyone and I bet you will be fine. Just don't use pop rivets or screws because no manufacture ever used those so that's a dead give away something is wrong. If you clean both surfaces good and use just enough glue to hold it but not squirt out all over the place and just use two screws to hold it until dry no one will know and you will go though hell getting it back off with out heat.

t walgamuth
12-19-2017, 02:06 PM
I got one of the plates with the Studebaker fancy script and stamped the number I found on the frame on it. Then I riveted it onto the firewall in the location that looked right. This is to make it more convenient. When the policeman came to look at it he did not bat an eye.

studegary
12-19-2017, 04:30 PM
As TWchamp said someone from down under was building them and they looked just like factory with your number already on it. Legal maybe -maybe not if you asked some clown at your DMV But glue it on with some 3-m metal adhesive and don't tell anyone and I bet you will be fine. Just don't use pop rivets or screws because no manufacture ever used those so that's a dead give away something is wrong. If you clean both surfaces good and use just enough glue to hold it but not squirt out all over the place and just use two screws to hold it until dry no one will know and you will go though hell getting it back off with out heat.

I have used thin double stick tape to mount it. It is not as thick as using glue and you do not have to hold it for a drying period. I have used modern double stick trim tape on the exterior and interior of vehicles and have never had anything come loose.

StudeRich
12-19-2017, 04:38 PM
There should not be or have been ANY "Rivets" or screws holding your Plate, just 2 or more Electric WELDS.

I would check the Frame Number and made sure it matches First, if you do not know this Car's History from Birth.

69158

Dick Steinkamp
12-19-2017, 05:12 PM
Chris (Stude Dude) used to carry both the water slide decals and the blank stainless plates. You might want to contact him...

http://www.studeparts.com.au/

Jeff_H
12-19-2017, 06:36 PM
If it were me and I did get a reproduction plate, I would make sure to keep the original damaged one with the car papers just in case.

swvalcon
12-19-2017, 07:27 PM
I've got three gt hawk bodys and they each have a screw hole on each side of the vin tag. I'am thinking these where used at the factory to hold the plate where it needed to be so it could be welded on then removed. If a very thin coat of metal adhesive is used and it would take very little to hold the tag in place and then a screw installed on each side to hold it tight until dry and then the screws removed it should look just as it did when new. If fact I removed the tag off my 64 when the body was painted and the spot welds are still showing though and when it is glued back in place should look just like it did when new. The only way anyone will be able to tell it is held on with adhesive is if they try to remove it again.

StudeRich
12-19-2017, 07:36 PM
The two holes in the Door post and the notches on the Serial Number Plate were designed by Engineering to use for the purpose you mention to TEMPORARILY Hold the Plate, but the Guys whose job it was to install same had a "Better idea" as you can see from my Photo, they must have slapped them on the Post anywhere close to the two alignment holes and taped them on so the welder behind him could "Hit" it. :(

There are even Dimples in the corners for the Welds, also rarely ever used.

Believe it or not, that one on a '58 Silver Hawk is one of the BEST jobs I have seen.

Like Wham, Bam got'er Done! Where's my Paycheck? :rolleyes:

studegary
12-19-2017, 07:39 PM
I've got three gt hawk bodys and they each have a screw hole on each side of the vin tag. I'am thinking these where used at the factory to hold the plate where it needed to be so it could be welded on then removed. If a very thin coat of metal adhesive is used and it would take very little to hold the tag in place and then a screw installed on each side to hold it tight until dry and then the screws removed it should look just as it did when new. If fact I removed the tag off my 64 when the body was painted and the spot welds are still showing though and when it is glued back in place should look just like it did when new. The only way anyone will be able to tell it is held on with adhesive is if they try to remove it again.

I believe that those holes were for alignment of the plate (not a "screw hole"). I think that if you look closely, you will see that nothing was in those holes, screws or otherwise. If you use screws in these holes, even temporarily, then they won't look correct/original. That is one of the reasons that I prefer thin two side trim tape.

EDIT: Rich was quicker "on the draw" than I was.

tomlewis
12-19-2017, 08:25 PM
Just don't use pop rivets or screws because no manufacture ever used those so that's a dead give away something is wrong QUOTE]

Sorry, but this statement is simply not accurate. The Auburn Automobile Company (I've owned a couple of Cords) used screws to attach serial number plates and I own a '32 Chevrolet that used nails (!) to attach serial numbers to either the wood of the seat riser or the wooden floor boards

Tom

StudeRich
12-19-2017, 08:34 PM
Yep that is correct Tom, by 1965 or 1966 even Studebaker of Canada had started using those "Special" Rivets that others used that have a very peculiar Special Head not available anywhere. Law enforcement and Motor Vehicle Dept's know what to look for, they also have at their disposal the LOCATION of the Vin Plate and "Secret" VIN Numbers.

The Post #5 situation with the Plate on the Firewall, would have been caught in a heartbeat by a Knowledgeable Officer who bothered to LOOK for the info.

bjackameit
12-19-2017, 08:51 PM
Screw-on serial number plates were used for Studebaker produced military trucks --

Examples below are from 1953 and 1962 production M35 military trucks --

bensherb
12-19-2017, 09:20 PM
Those "special" rivets are called Rosette rivets. They are available but will cost you! About $15 EACH!:eek:

Here in California, when you apply for new registration, (a vehicle that hasn't been registered in a long time or is not in their system for whatever reason) you have to get the vin number verified. On the VIN verification form, that a cop or other "officer" signs after he verifies the vin, there is a question that asks how the vin is applied and where it's located. That question has boxes to check, some of them are, "Stamped", "plate", if plate how attched "round rivets", "rosette rivets", "welded" and location "frame", "body", "front","rear", "left", "right", etc. If I remember right there is a space to elaborate as well.

SScopelli
12-19-2017, 09:28 PM
I have Stainless blanks, but for 63, which were smaller than previous years. They have no decals.

bezhawk
12-19-2017, 10:08 PM
I have made stainless blanks, and had them ENGRAVED not stamped. The font on the later cars with date numbered beginnings is different from the numbers after the date. That is you can have two different fonts for numbers on the same plate. It is not true that no plates were riveted ....Avantis were RIVETED to the frame. When replacing them use panel bond adhesive as it is as strong as a weld, and will not leave a gap behind it like two sided tape.

Mike Sal
12-19-2017, 11:05 PM
How is the best way to remove the VIN plate from the A pillar? I've got a nice rust free body to replace the rusty one on my 66 Commander. I'll need to remove both plates from both cars without destroying the one from the '66 so I can re-use it.
Mike Sal

StudeRich
12-20-2017, 02:00 AM
Very easy, just cut a hole around the Plate to save, and grind the welds off from the back of the Pillar piece, not hurting the Front.

Then grind the saved Car's "A" pillar smooth after grinding away the trash Plate from the Front.
Last, use the "Fuser" Body Panel Adhesive to permanently fasten it.

StudeDave57
12-20-2017, 03:09 AM
The (never been messed with) s/n plate on my '65 Cruiser looks like~

69166



South Bend cars can / will vary... ;)

JRoberts
12-20-2017, 06:43 AM
I thought trucks (non-military) had screws to hold the tags on.

Skip Lackie
12-20-2017, 06:55 AM
Most (all?) of the C cab truck serial plates I have seen were screwed on. Some were ALSO spot welded.

swvalcon
12-20-2017, 09:08 AM
Most factorys us the rivets with the special heads. I didn't think Studebaker ever did. At one time they where not available to the aftermarket. I guess to keep people from swapping vin tags on stolen cars. I'am sure for military or back in the 20's or so it wasn't an issue because stolen title swaps where not that big of a deal. I don't know as what I would use a screw or even one of the special head rivets just in case it ever gets inspected by someone that knows their stuff. I had a customer that had a 66 mustang convert that he had just bought. When we checked the vin tag out it came up as a 2 dr coupe. He ended up making the people take the car back and refunding his money. This could happen even after several years and a couple different owners. Ask me how I know.

mbstude
12-20-2017, 05:01 PM
I've got a repro aluminum plate for a '50 era Stude. I can't remember where I got it from but I've had it for a while. Anyone need it?



https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4600/38476263504_bec61edf24_z.jpg

8E45E
12-20-2017, 05:09 PM
The (never been messed with) s/n plate on my '65 Cruiser looks like~

69166



South Bend cars can / will vary...

Look CLOSE, Dave, its a V.I.N.; NOT a 'serial number' in 1965 & 6!! ;)

Craig

tomlewis
12-20-2017, 05:28 PM
Ha Ha. Maybe Studebaker of Canada labeled it as such in '65 and '66, but here n the U.S., what is called a VIN (17 digits) was not federally mandated until 1981

Tom

8E45E
12-21-2017, 08:48 AM
but here n the U.S., what is called a VIN (17 digits) was not federally mandated until 1981.

That 17-digit is an international standard; not just a 'US' thing. Gary can chime in if he likes and add to this, but the 17 digit VIN also contains the numeric country-of-manufacture code, the vehicle manufacturer's code, etc.

Craig

lschuc
12-21-2017, 11:56 AM
Like BezHawk mentions above, he has reproduced the stainless plates with engraved numbers. He also has the correct decals for South Bend produced Studebakers, 1962-1964.

Mike Sal
12-21-2017, 04:10 PM
Hmmm....took a look at my Canadian built cars today & see that the '65 Cruiser VIN plate was attached with round steel pop rivets which are rusty, and both of my '66 Commanders have stainless steel rosette type pop rivets.
Mike Sal

tomlewis
12-21-2017, 08:05 PM
[QUOTE=8E45E;1087892]That 17-digit is an international standard; not just a 'US' thing. Gary can chime in if he likes and add to this, but the 17 digit VIN also contains the numeric country-of-manufacture code, the vehicle manufacturer's code, etc.

I agree, but I think you are reading more into my statement than I actually said. While the 17-digit VIN does indeed contain country-of-manufacture codes and was an international standard, it was not federally mandated in the United States until 1981

Tom