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migral23
12-12-2017, 05:21 PM
Readers, I'm asking for advice from much more experienced folks than I. My recently-acquired 1948 M16 truck definitely needs brakes; the brake pedal is easier to push to the floor than is the clutch pedal. Since it will likely have to spend a bit of time up on jackstands while I accumulate whatever parts I find it'll need, I want it to be securely supported. To that end I ask: will 3-ton (rated per pair) jackstands be sufficient, or will I have to move up to 6-ton ones? It's a cab-and-chassis only so no bed weight for the rear, but I've not had to consider supporting a heavy vehicle before; the stands I do have right now, I wouldn't feel comfortable using...they're not sturdy-looking enough. It will be in that raised position on an asphalt driveway, thus I'm considering making a set of basic jack plates to go under the stands so they don't sink into the asphalt; is that overkill ? Thanks.

63t-cab
12-12-2017, 05:44 PM
If it were Me, I'd go with the 6 ton instead of the 3 ton. I would certainly put something under the stands to protect the pavement from the stand legs. though make sure what ever you put under the stands is quite rigid so it can't mis shape.

truckguy
12-12-2017, 05:50 PM
Three ton means 6,000 pounds! You sure don't need more than that unless you are dealing with a fully loaded semi truck!

62champ
12-12-2017, 05:50 PM
As a rule, I try not to raise the insert on jack stands more than two clicks. I know they will go higher but I have been under a vehicle when it was not supported well and will not do it again. If I need them to go higher I break out the lumber - 2X12s cut into short sections work pretty well - and the sharp parts of the jack stand base usually digs into the wood making a little more stable.

skyway
12-12-2017, 05:53 PM
On asphalt, plates or even a good board under each jackstand is never overkill.

Also, I've moved away from the sheet metal (and often 3 legged) jackstands in favor of the (often orange & white colored) ratcheting, 4 legged "cast iron" ones.

TWChamp
12-12-2017, 06:13 PM
On asphalt, plates or even a good board under each jackstand is never overkill.

Also, I've moved away from the sheet metal (and often 3 legged) jackstands in favor of the (often orange & white colored) ratcheting, 4 legged "cast iron" ones.

Ditto, many years ago, when I was a teenager, I bought some stamped steel 3 leg jack stands from K Mart, and one of them collapsed while I was part way under the car. They are junk and shouldn't even be used for a lawn mower. They are also too unstable.
I have both the 3 ton ratchet style heavy duty 4 leg stands that I use for my cars, and the 6 ton that I would use for trucks. I cut squares out of 3/4" plywood and screwed 3/4" x 1" wood strips around the border to make sure the stand can't slide off the wood pad.

Skip Lackie
12-13-2017, 07:31 AM
Without a bed on the back, your truck probably weighs about 6000 pounds, so a couple of three-ton jack stands are more than enough for one end. However, it might take more than a couple of clicks to get the truck very high. The advantage of 6-ton units is that they're bigger in all dimensions, so two clicks is good enough to work under it easily. I have some 6-ton units, and They're 15-16 inches high in the down position.

As has been said, a few short pieces of 2x12" are always a good idea when working on blacktop.

JRoberts
12-13-2017, 09:26 AM
I agree that bigger is better when it comes to jack stands. The slabs of wood under each stand certainly can' t hurt either.

migral23
12-13-2017, 12:17 PM
My thanks to you, Skip, and to all others who weighed in on my question. Based on the consensus, I'll err on the conservative side and get two sets of 6-ton stands.
And the suggestion about the 2x12 lengths underneath is a good one; it reminds me of the cribbing I've seen guys use on those "House Movers" TV shows, where some 70-ton building is supported on a webbing of wood blocks (of course, they're using 6x6s or greater) to support the jacked-up building. Pity there, though; I've never seen a Studebaker truck doing the building-pulling.

migral23
12-13-2017, 12:24 PM
I think I was leaning toward the 3-ton units at first because: (1) they're cheaper to buy (although so is cut-rate insurance...until you need it); (2) the truck couldn't weigh a huge amount with no bed, and (3) the 3-ton units would take up a smaller footprint on the ground, thus letting me get the floor jack closer to the spot where I'd want the jackstand to be positioned. I wasn't sure if it was acceptable to lift the rear end via the differential, or the front end via the center of the axle, in order to get both stands in place with a single lift. That's assuming the jack would even lift the whole end at once !!

Warren Webb
12-13-2017, 12:56 PM
I was surprised that my little 1.5 ton Harbor Freight aluminum jack was able to lift my 01 Ford E350 box truck so it's good to know in a pinch. As far as lifting the rear by the center of the diff, why not? That's the spot I've used for the past 60+ years. Ditto for the center of the front axle.

Skip Lackie
12-13-2017, 01:56 PM
Agree with Warren. That's how I jack up my 4E40.

RadioRoy
12-13-2017, 03:16 PM
When I have a car on jack stands, before getting under the car, I grab each corner of the bumpers and shake/wiggle/twist/push/pull the car as hard as I can. That tells me everything is settled into place.

migral23
12-13-2017, 06:11 PM
Thanks, all, for the jacking confirmation. And if Skip L. is lifting that behemoth of a 4E40 by the rear differential, and it works OK, I have nothing to worry about with this comparatively-light M16.

DEEPNHOCK
12-13-2017, 06:40 PM
For your review:

http://floorjacked.com/buyers-guide-choosing-the-best-jack-stands/

https://www.garagechief.com/best-jack-stands-review/

https://www.autodeets.com/best-jack-stands/

http://allgaragefloors.com/best-jack-stands/

Skip Lackie
12-14-2017, 10:35 AM
One of the advantages of working on a big Studebaker truck is that it's already so high off the ground that you don't need to jack it up for most repair jobs (exception: brake work).

njonkman
12-14-2017, 06:09 PM
I was surprised that my little 1.5 ton Harbor Freight aluminum jack was able to lift my 01 Ford E350 box truck so it's good to know in a pinch. As far as lifting the rear by the center of the diff, why not? That's the spot I've used for the past 60+ years. Ditto for the center of the front axle.

When reading through the owner's manual for my 96 F150 pick up I noticed that it said never to lift the truck with a jack under the center of the differential. Just thought I would pass this on. I guess it is possible to bend the axle housing since the weight is always carried at the springs. I too have always for 60 years lifted them under the dif.
Nick

Guido
12-15-2017, 08:10 PM
In lieu of jack stands I use 4" x 12" slabs of rough cut lumber 18" long. Big footprint and they will not collapse under a load. I owned a sawmill so I could make my own and the quality of the lumber was probably much better than Lowes/Home Depot.

KenF
12-15-2017, 11:42 PM
In lieu of jack stands I use 4" x 12" slabs of rough cut lumber 18" long. Big footprint and they will not collapse under a load. I owned a sawmill so I could make my own and the quality of the lumber was probably much better than Lowes/Home Depot.

I do that too, for longer term project build a wood crib to hold vehicle, no chance of it falling then. But not like the pic below!

69129

jclary
12-16-2017, 08:36 AM
I do that too, for longer term project build a wood crib to hold vehicle, no chance of it falling then. But not like the pic below!

69129


Good Grief!!! A former college classmate of mine, and his wife, only have photo's & memories of their son who died with his pick up resting on his chest. It has been years since the tragedy, and I don't recall the details. That young man was a high school classmate of my daughter. No matter how you support a vehicle, there is always risks. Even if the support is excellent, and the risks are small, nothing will be worth your life!

I always use jack stands, and leave the jack in place too! On occasions where the jack is in the way, I take extra precautions with extra support.

One additional caution...It is tempting when moving around under a supported vehicle, to reach up and grab onto the frame for leverage to move around. Try not to do that. It is possible to move a vehicle off the jack stands that way. Even the rubber protectors you can buy, to place over the jack stand contact points, do not completely protect them from sliding sideways if enough lateral force is applied.