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View Full Version : Transmission: 170 flathead six transmission and starter questions



Wolf346
10-27-2017, 05:22 PM
I recently picked up a 170 flathead engine from a 1954 champion and would like to build it for a future project and was wondering which starters might interchange since it did not come with one and what transmissions will mount to it, preferably a manual. Am currently looking for a t96. A friend knows where a few Larks are but am not sure if anything from these will work. Any advice is appreciated.

PackardV8
10-27-2017, 05:57 PM
The '54 is 6-volt and all Larks will be 12-volt. Transmissions pretty much interchange, but became long tailshaft in '58, so the driveshafts are different and the overdrive solenoids became 12-volt in '56-66.

jack vines

Wolf346
10-27-2017, 06:12 PM
Will the starter nose cone be the same? The 12 volt, 6 volt issue would not be a problem. The tailshaft would also not be a problem as long as the bell housing would bolt up, and the starter location would be the same. Will be using a custom driveshaft back to an open drive model a axle.

StudeRich
10-27-2017, 10:00 PM
The Starter Nose is only different from Standard to Automatic Trans.

Just remember that '51 to '57 Transmissions have a "Bolted output Yoke" and a TWO piece driveshaft whereas the '58 to '66 are ONE Piece with a Slip Yoke that will NOT fit the Early Tranny's.

I have NO idea what a "Open" Model A Diff. & Shaft looks like, seems like an awkward Fit for a Stude. almost any GM/Ford Shaft can be made to fit the Spicer common Stude. "U" Joints.
And ANY '53 to '66 Stude. Dana Model 27 or 44 Rear axle will fit a Stude. of those years, with good Ratios available, not 5.50 to One! :rolleyes:

WHY do it the Hard way?
You did not say however WHAT Vehicle it is going in?

gordr
10-28-2017, 02:49 AM
Will the starter nose cone be the same? The 12 volt, 6 volt issue would not be a problem. The tailshaft would also not be a problem as long as the bell housing would bolt up, and the starter location would be the same. Will be using a custom driveshaft back to an open drive model a axle.

Remember, the six-volt and twelve flywheels have a different tooth count, with the twelve having more and finer teeth. You might get a larger clutch, too, with a twelve volt flywheel.

Wolf346
10-28-2017, 06:35 AM
The engine will be going in a narrowed model a ford style frame with a boattail speedster style body, think 1930s. Its a project I've always wanted to do. A model a open drive rear end is a banjo style rearaxle where the torque tube that contains the drive shaft is removed and an adapter converts the front of the differential to accept standard u-joints. When I saw the little 170 it looked perfect for the project but was minus the starter flywheel and transmission. So the main thing is to get compatible parts to complete the package.

tsenecal
10-28-2017, 10:36 AM
Sounds like a cool project. I love to read about the race of gentlemen, that run similar style vehicles, with mostly stock engines. The 170 should really make a light chassis like you are building , scoot down the road.

GTHawk
10-28-2017, 11:48 AM
The Starter Nose is only different from Standard to Automatic Trans.

Just remember that '51 to '57 Transmissions have a "Bolted output Yoke" and a TWO piece driveshaft whereas the '58 to '66 are ONE Piece with a Slip Yoke that will NOT fit the Early Tranny's.

I have NO idea what a "Open" Model A Diff. & Shaft looks like, seems like an awkward Fit for a Stude. almost any GM/Ford Shaft can be made to fit the Spicer common Stude. "U" Joints.
And ANY '53 to '66 Stude. Dana Model 27 or 44 Rear axle will fit a Stude. of those years, with good Ratios available, not 5.50 to One! :rolleyes:

WHY do it the Hard way?
You did not say however WHAT Vehicle it is going in?

Why do it the hard way!!!

There was group of four or five soldier engineer types during the war who had a formula for accomplishing more in a very short time than any other group in the army. It is a formula that I have used in my business car restoration and every and all projects I encounter. It is( B S Q C.) Do the job the Best way in the simplest manner in the quickest time at the cheapest cost. Now if the best way is very complicated then go the the next best way and so on. Make sure though you always consider the best way and not just move on to the simplest, quickest and cheapest as is done much of the time. And also don't do as is done more often make things complicated not simple and not necessarily the best way.

tsenecal
10-28-2017, 05:50 PM
I think BSQC is good advice, and in the OP's case, I believe that he feels the Studebaker 170 is the best way, fairly simple to adapt, as quick as any other engine, for about the same cost. He wasn't really looking for input on his engine choice, only what starter/trans combination would work best.

Wolf346
10-29-2017, 03:26 PM
appreciate the opinions, sometimes we find different ways forward that way. what i was really hoping for was more along the lines of; 1949-1958 six cylinder transmissions will work even the ohv ones, the starters are the same except the later ones are 12v but could use the 6v bendix or you can use this starter but the nosecone will have to be changed, other vehicles that may have a trans that will work are.... but the bellhousings will have to be changed. or you can use the truck transmission but have to change the bellhousing. things along that line. or even you can use a t96-1a, 1b etc or a t9 crashbox.

Wolf346
10-29-2017, 03:45 PM
the info provided so far is very useful. I too am a big fan of the Great Race, 1920s-1930s cars, am currently working on a 1926 indy inspired model T and a 1949 Chrysler New Yorker.