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heaer blower 63-64 Hawks

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  • Cool/Heat: heaer blower 63-64 Hawks

    On 62 and earlier Hawks Heater blower was inside the back of the right fender and the heater core was under passenger seat. They changed it all in 63 and the heater core was put up in the right inner fender like the Larks. Where was the blower located? We don't have any 63 or 64 Hawks located anywhere near by to look at. -- thanks

  • #2
    Take a look at Plate AC-4 on page 6 in the 1959-1964 Body Parts Catalog, there's an exploded view of the placement of things.

    Click image for larger version

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    Bill L.
    1962 GT Hawk

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    • #3
      Thanks for sharing the view from the body parts catalog. It looks like the defroster motor/blower found on earlier Hawks has gone away, and defroster/heater duties are shared by the new set up. I have a '62 Hawk and I want to convert to the new setup. I have already gotten a 63 inner fender and welded it in.

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      • #4
        You will need the Air Distribution DUCT and Fan Motor for under the Dash.
        Also the Heater Core and Water Control Valve.
        Then you will need the Def./Heat Cable Control & Cable for the Dash.

        You will also need to reconfigure the Wiper and Fan switches, getting a '63 Wiper Switch and painting it Black.

        It really takes a complete '63 parts car to do this, but the good news is the Defrosting System will now be forced, fresh air instead of recirculating.
        The Heating will be about the same, or a bit less effective than the '62 setup.
        Last edited by StudeRich; 10-07-2017, 10:15 AM.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

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        • #5
          It just seemed so dumb to me that you would cook the passenger while the rest of the car was cold. I think Studebakers must have agreed, since they went to the trouble to change it. I have an on-going fascination with all the small but effective changes Stude introduced in 63 & 64. I inherited a 64 Challenger from my brother a few years ago and I've been really impressed as I get to know the car. Stude was really trying, right up to the end.

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          • #6
            There is supposed to be a Heat Shield that directs the Heated Air fore and aft to heat pretty much the whole Car and can work very well with the system all "up to speed".

            In Northern Canada, Alaska and anywhere else that needed more Heat, they opted for the "Auxiliary Heater" that goes in the RHC knock panel out under the LHC Driver's Seat, it was a recirculate type system.
            Last edited by StudeRich; 10-07-2017, 10:56 AM.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner
            SDC Member Since 1967

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            • #7
              I have had two 1963 GTs, and both of their OEM heaters were inferior to the 62 and earlier Hawk type. Neither of them work very well, if temps drop below 30F. All years work great, down to about 20F below, if supplemented with a 2nd heater. One way, is with a heater element in a retro looking, hanging under dash AC evaporator. Another way is with a factory optioned auxiliary heater, under the driver's seat. I have had one of those in the 56J now for about 20 years, and love it. I bought it, NOS from Tom Karkowics back in the day.

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              • #8
                Save your self a lot of grief and just get a complete ac/ heater system from a after market vender.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by swvalcon View Post
                  Save your self a lot of grief and just get a complete ac/ heater system from a after market vender.
                  If temps are below 30, that is not sufficient either since, at road speed, outside cold air leaks to the inside like a sieve (on a K bodied Stude); the only place you will be warm is where the air is blowing directly on you. In other words, you can have a hot kneecap, a freezing a_ _, and blowing steam out of your mouth all at the same time. The OEM system over pressurizes the cabin and stops outside leaks, but there is just not enough volume of warm air. Your aftermarket, combined with the OEM, warms the entire cabin, and is good down to about zero, before you need a coat.
                  Last edited by JoeHall; 10-08-2017, 07:59 AM.

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                  • #10
                    I like to drive my antiques year round, weather permitting. No way when it's freezing out tho.

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