View Full Version : Body: How to shim/adjust the body for door alignment, 1953 C Coupe

10-06-2017, 04:59 PM
I replaced the floor and body mounts on the passenger side, the door was sitting in the opening just fine before I started and looks good now. Note that I X braced the body at both the A and B Pillars before starting.

The drivers side however, was out of wack when I started, the door sagged so much that it was difficult to even get the door open. I replaced the the body mounts and started roughing in the floor (using self tapping screws) and the floor does not run parallel to the door even after I jacked the A pillar and pulled it back to bring the corner of the door up.

***The first picture shows the rear corner of the door after I jacked the A pillar up and pulled it back.
***The second picture shows the difference between the door and the floor, the picture may visually exaggerate the amount but it is a least a half inch off over the length of the door. (edit)The bottom of the door and the floor are not parallel. They are off over 1/2 inch, maybe more, if I can see it then I know it's bad.
***The last picture shows the X brace and the strap that I used to pull the pillar back with.

Is it possible that the X brace is now holding the body from moving where it needs to be??? and should I possibly cut the lower part of the X free to allow the lower part of the A pillar to move more or is it a body shim issue?

10-06-2017, 07:04 PM
Is the floor's door sill not parallel with the door bottom or just that there is a space that gets taken up with the rocker panel that seems too large?

Had lots of problems with my '53 "K" hardtop with driver door as well. Note the reproduction floor pans the door sill is straight since made on a sheet metal brake rather than curved. The rockers are curved a bit. In my car, the rockers were the last thing to go on and I used varying amounts of washers with flat head sheet metal screws in the rubber channel to get the gap to the door bottom. Also, don't be afraid to loosen shim out the bottom of the rear fender to pull it out to meet the door bottom corner. I've seen more than one car with problems there where the door is good at the front and top but the bottom corner sticks out.

10-06-2017, 08:40 PM
I'm just a amateur rebuilder but I always put the doors back in the opening with the hinges unbolted from the doors. I just shim and tape the doors into the opening until they fit. I then adjust and shim the hinges to hold them in that position.

Basically set the door into the opening and if it fits the opening then you're good to go. If you can't make it fit without the hinges attached then modifications are needed but you will know where you need to attack.


10-06-2017, 09:07 PM
The door bottom and the floor are not parallel, at least a half inch or better off from front to back, I am starting to think that by X bracing I am just holding the door sag in place and not really getting the A pillar back to where it was originally. As you can tell, I don't do this for a living:(

10-09-2017, 09:04 PM
It didn't look right but when I put the rocker on it is close enough, I think the problem is resolved.