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What's the least worked bearing?

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  • What's the least worked bearing?

    Silly question. I have my own answer, but wondering if anyone besides me has given it any thought? What is the least worked/stressed bushing/bearing in any Studebaker's drive train? From the engine front, to the rear wheels, what is the bearing, or bushing least likely to suffer failure, or wear?

    I have no urgent need of an answer, but while looking over some parts a while back, the thought crossed my mind. Thought it might be a fun question to throw out to the forum.

    I'm posting this and going to bed. Have an early motorcycle appointment in the morning. Will check in if I get up early enough.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC

    SDC member since 1975

  • #2
    I'll throw out the first guess. My SWAG, the rear cam bearing.
    Chip
    '63 Cruiser
    '57 Packard wagon
    '61 Lark Regal 4 dr wagon
    '50 Commander 4 dr sedan

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    • #3
      Maybe the throw out bearing? It only turns while the clutch is in.
      Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by tsenecal View Post
        Maybe the throw out bearing? It only turns while the clutch is in.
        Windshield wiper motor?

        Radio knob bushing?

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        • #5
          In the drivetrain it could be the bushing that supports the back end of the torque converter.
          "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

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          • #6
            Muffler bearing?
            sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
            1950 Champion Convertible
            1950 Champion 4Dr
            1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
            1957 Thunderbird

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            • #7
              Water pump.

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              • #8
                Left rear door hinge.

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                • #9
                  Arguably, the needle bearings in the U-joints.

                  The reason I'll say 'arguably', is it varies from one car to the next. One driven daily on level pavement will have had far less planar movement than one driven on a bumpy, gravel road.

                  Craig

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                  • #10
                    All of the above, as answered bushings/bearings (in the "drive train") are worked...very similar.
                    What counts for this questionnaire, RPM or load ? Two VERY different things.

                    As a combination of the two (RPM & load), I'd say the second to the last (last has more distributor gear loading) cam bearing.
                    Another one might be the speedometer gear inside the transmission. RPM is low, load is low.

                    Mike

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                    • #11
                      Hood latch bushing.

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                      • #12
                        Pilot bearing

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                        • #13
                          I agree with Joe, pilot bearing or bushing! -Jim

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                            Pilot bearing
                            THAT'S IT!!!

                            That's what got me to wondering. While I have never heard of anyone claiming to replace a "cam" bearing that failed (without associated failures), I certainly have never heard of a vehicle having to go into a shop "only" to have a plot bearing replaced. Some of you "REAL" mechanics might have a more educated opinion, but my thinking is the pilot bearings are more of a "guide" than an actual load bearing support. Also, it operates at the same rotating speed as it's mating components, Technically, it has a tolerance of fit, that provides clearance. When having a pilot shaft exposed, I always place a small film of lube on it, but not much. I've separated transmissions from flywheels many times and found them bone dry with no adverse wear or friction burns.

                            I replaced one in a Mazda RX7 rotary engine years ago, but that was when I replaced the clutch/pressure plate assembly. Following manual instructions, (since this was my first and only time on this kind of engine) I did it 'cause it was included in the instructions. After buying a pilot bearing removal tool, I was able to get that blasted thing out. It looked as good as the new one. If I had another job like that, I probably wouldn't replace it. Sometimes, I think these factory manuals include stuff to help mechanics "pad" the repair bills.
                            John Clary
                            Greer, SC

                            SDC member since 1975

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by thunderations View Post
                              Muffler bearing?
                              They were belt driven...right?
                              Lou Van Anne
                              62 Champ
                              64 R2 GT Hawk
                              79 Avanti II

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