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Jimmie
10-01-2017, 07:29 PM
I have a 1962 Hawk that smokes especially when first started.
Q 1. Is it alright to use synthetic oil.
Q 2. Is there another kind that is better?
Q 3. Is there an additive that might cut down on the smoking.

Mike Van Veghten
10-01-2017, 08:00 PM
1. Yes.
2. What do you mean by kind ? Todays synthetics are currently the best available.
3. No.

More on question 1. - Todays synthetics are very good oils, some slightly better than others. Even many of todays normal (non-synthetic) oils are very good and can be used in the Studebaker engine with success. I use Castrol GTX, 20-50 in my daily driver, 259 powered Lark, and have for a very many years and miles.

More on question 3. - There are some very thick additives available that MAY...slow the smoking some, but that's only because of the heavy viscosity, not by any magic potion.
Smoke out of the exhaust, means something is leaking. Normally piston rings and or valve guide and seals.
Again, there is NO magic potion or elixir to "fix" a worn engine.

Mike

Gunslinger
10-01-2017, 08:06 PM
You mean the little magic pellets you drop into the cylinders through the spark plug holes don't work like they claim?

53k
10-02-2017, 07:46 AM
I have a 1962 Hawk that smokes especially when first started.
Q 1. Is it alright to use synthetic oil.
Q 2. Is there another kind that is better?
Q 3. Is there an additive that might cut down on the smoking.
I don't know the whole story on your smoking engine, but it may be bad (or virtually non-existent) valve guide seals. My '64 Avanti smoked some on starting and it used a quart of oil in 500 miles. New valve guide seals took me about a half day to install. New seals cut oil consumption at least in half, maybe quite a bit more (can't remember adding oil).

Jeffry Cassel
10-02-2017, 07:53 AM
Could be the valve stem seals are gone. I use Valvolene VR-1 20-50. It contains ZDDP. I have been told not to use synthetic in older engines; apparantly it is leakier and you are more apt to burn/leak more. Sudebakers leak enough already.

Jimmie
10-02-2017, 08:45 PM
I hope to put the valve stem seals on soon. I have been told that I will need to add air pressure through the spark plug holes to keep the valves from falling into the cylinders when they are released --to put the seals on the stems. Any comments related to this will be greatly appreciated.

tsenecal
10-02-2017, 08:51 PM
Some people use compressed air, and some use soft cotton rope, threaded into the spark plug hole, and then GENTLY bring the piston up till the rope is holding the valves closed. Air would probably be quicker if you have the adapter. Good Luck!

StudeRich
10-03-2017, 01:34 AM
OR, Just turn the engine through the Firing Order and do each 2 Valves while the Piston is up, the easy way, and you won't risk getting Rope stuck in your Engine or have to buy a 14 mm Fitting Air Chuck. :rolleyes:

53k
10-03-2017, 09:12 AM
I hope to put the valve stem seals on soon. I have been told that I will need to add air pressure through the spark plug holes to keep the valves from falling into the cylinders when they are released --to put the seals on the stems. Any comments related to this will be greatly appreciated.
I tried the "rope in the cylinder" trick, but wasn't very confident about the results so I pulled out the rope and used my air adapter. The seals are a piece of cake to install. My big problem was the valve spring keepers. They kept getting away from me no matter how carefully I compressed the springs.