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Steve Winzar
09-29-2017, 12:41 AM
Hi all-
I have found that the sump on my 1962 Hawk leaks , but not for the usual reasons. (A pity really because the usual spots are not leaking).
The right hand side of the sump shows some corrosion pitting and three tiny splits up toward the top Flange are bleeding oil. I managed to do a rough repair with some screws with seals under the heads, but I know that this is not going to be a long term solution. Before I roll up my sleeves big-time on this job. I would kindly ask for some advice on what to expect out of this job- like what will and won't need to be removed, use of sealants, do's-don'ts, etc.
Note:

I will be on my back doing this job- the motor is not coming out.
The car is RH drive with no power steering
I will likely do the front and rear main seals
The car has a twin exhaust- Does it need unbolting for clearance??

I shall go and put the beast up on ramps and await the groups learned best-practices :(....
Regards, Steve

StudeRich
09-29-2017, 01:52 AM
Number one Item on "to do list": ... Find a new or used replacement '56-'64 V8 Oil Pan.

Have on hand:
Timing Cover Gasket Set with: Fuel Pump, Water Manifold, Timing Cover Gaskets and Timing Seal.
Oil Pan Gasket Set
Rear Main Seal Kit.
Lower Dipstick Tube to Oil Pan Copper Washer (Seal)
Permatex RTV Black Silicone, Gasket Maker or equivalent.
Oil Filter and 6 Qts. Engine Oil

Follow the Shop Manual instructions for replacing the:

Timing Cover Gasket and Seal
Rear Main Seal
Oil Pan Gaskets

Start by raising the Car and putting level and solid on 4 Jackstands
Turn the wheels all the way to the Right.

Mrs K Corbin
09-29-2017, 06:28 AM
I agree with Rich on this one, the act of either screwing or drilling into the pan may introduce metal into the oil....
Do you really want that?

I recently had an oil pressure problem on an Allis, even though "I thought" I had enough oil. 2 quarts later the oil pressure came right up.
Note to self: pull pan on '53 Allis and clean out the sludge...

Steve Winzar
09-29-2017, 07:54 AM
I have a spare sump pan and will be cleaning and inspecting it pronto. I will probably repair the crook one with an oxy welded patch and keep it as a spare. I didn't need to drill any holes and certainly wouldn't entertain that notion- an awl just went straight through when I was pinpointing the leaks :ohmy:. Self tapping screws were fine until one hole just got too big to deal with so I've chucked-in the towel. I'm hoping the left hand exhaust pipe and oil pump strainer don't conspire with one another to cause problems with removal. This car has a damper connected to the steering bellcrank- I'm not familiar with that but I'll probably have to remove it too.
Steve

rkapteyn
09-29-2017, 08:15 AM
The shock absorber type steering stabilizer was a 1962 accessory afterthought.
I do not know why it was introduced for the 1962 Hawks.
It was to prevent shimmy ?
http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/steer/hawkstab.html

Steve Winzar
10-10-2017, 01:23 AM
Ok, I have managed to remove the rear main seal by thumping it with a 1/4" brass rod and wriggling the steel insert with long nose pliers. I have rough fitted the cork seal in the groove but I'm still wondering why we get told not to trim the ends and not forget the filler blocks. The picture shows obvious overhang (and yes, I have pushed the cork way down into its groove).
Also, the little rubber whiskers that protrude from the Neoprene seal- do they get trimmed off or leave 'em long over the cork?
What ought I do in this case? :(. Steve.
67648

StudeRich
10-10-2017, 01:35 AM
You have the Cork Arch Gasket installed upside down.
When correct, the ANGLE of the ends will be parallel to the Block.

That looks to me like minimum excess on the ends of that Arch Gasket, when Installed LEVEL it should crush down nicely.

After the main Cap is torqued down you can use a small exacto knife to trim the excess small "Ears" off, before inserting the small Corks and the Pan side gaskets.

Jeffry Cassel
10-10-2017, 07:22 AM
Years ago had same problem. Drained oil. cleaned up the pan and MIG welded the hole. To my suprise, it worked.

Steve Winzar
10-10-2017, 07:28 AM
Thanks Rich, I will see to it tomorrow.

rusty nut garage
10-10-2017, 09:56 AM
I mostly agree with Rich but I substitute #3 aviation permatex and us NO silicone RTV. Use a liberal amount of the permatex on the cork, it will help lubricate it to slide in the groove and will assist in sealing as well. I use long stud (all thread) in the 4 corner bolt positions to hold the pan in place while you observe the corks in their correct position. with the 4 studs you then evenly seat the pan. not a fun job while on your back but it can be done. Good luck.

Steve Winzar
10-10-2017, 06:55 PM
Thanks Russ. I will obtain the long studs before getting along further. I have Permatex on hand. As far as Silicone sealants are concerned I have not been a fan of these only because I see far too many repairs done with them without the use of ANY gaskets. Point in fact is this job... There were no gaskets at all on the water pump to block joints or the water pump to manifold- just a smear of silicone. I will confess to being a bit paranoid about getting anything in between the bearing halves. I am considering getting a couple of 3mm steel bars and drilling them to suit the pan flanges along the long sides to act as a 'doubler' like in the corners.
Steve