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View Full Version : Anyone have a spare C-Cab radiator???...UPDATE



jclary
09-19-2017, 07:50 PM
Not the small one for the six cylinder, but the ones used in the heavy duty trucks, with V8. For me, time is flying by, but progress is at a snail's pace. Today, for the first time in weeks, I spent time removing clutter to get to this engine test stand so I could have an opportunity to get a tiny bit of work done on it. Once I moved enough "stuff," I then spent another couple of hours improvising an assembly of hoses to tie the bottom and top radiator hoses together so I could fill the radiator without hooking it up to the engine's water manifold. I don't want to deal with coolant in the engine until I know I have a good enough radiator to fill the system.

So, once I cobbled some hoses, PVC, and adapters together (they are two different sizes), I finally added water to the obviously beat up and wounded radiator that was extracted from a very used up 1955 flatbed work truck. The result was not unexpected. Using a garden hose, I began filling the radiator. It was going well until about a quarter the way up. Then the radiator began peeing on me.:( Really, not unexpected. If I had a better pic, it is a wonder that it held that much water before the leak started. I'm pretty sure there will be others.

Anyway, I thought I'd ask if anyone has one within a day's drive of my upstate SC location? I know I can take this one to a shop. But, I'd like to have a back-up just in case.
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StudeRich
09-19-2017, 09:14 PM
John, the way I understand it if you want the Larger, Taller V8 Radiator used from '56 to '64 on "C" Cabs, you need the "Bubble" Hood from a '56 to '64.

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studegary
09-19-2017, 09:24 PM
John, the way I understand it if you want the Larger, Taller V8 Radiator used from '56 to '64 on "C" Cabs, you need the "Bubble" Hood from a '56 to '64.



The way that I read the post, John wants the radiator for his engine test stand. Why would he need a hood?

studegary
09-19-2017, 09:27 PM
John -
Why not just close off/block any tubes that are leaking or are suspect? It is not like you are going to be caught out on the road due to a failure.
This assumes that I read your inquiry correctly in that this is all for an engine test stand.

StudeRich
09-19-2017, 09:44 PM
I THOUGHT I recalled his prior mention of a Plan to install a V8 in his beautiful '55 small Six Pickup. :o

studegary
09-19-2017, 09:49 PM
I THOUGHT I recalled his prior mention of a Plan to install a V8 in his beautiful '55 small Six Pickup. :o

That sounds familiar and may be what the engine, but not radiator, is for.

StudeRich
09-19-2017, 09:49 PM
I THOUGHT I recalled his prior mention of a Plan to install a V8 in his beautiful '55 small Six Pickup. :o

If that WERE the case, the usual situation is, both the Test Radiator and Rebuilt Engine after run-in and test, go into the Truck. Because the stock 185 6 Radiator in the Truck will not do.

Right John, or not so much? ;)

christophe
09-20-2017, 03:26 AM
You might be joking at this, but, if it is only for a temporary test, you can easily stop the leak by sticking a small potato into the radiator core.
Nice day to all.

jclary
09-20-2017, 07:29 AM
Hey folks, I'm sorry 'bout the "Drive by Posting"...but after coming in from evening chores, I took a shower, posted this thread, had my evening meal, & fell asleep shortly after. I was awakened by the poodle around midnight threatening to pee on my foot if I didn't get up and let him go outside.:rolleyes: So, this morning, I'm finally awake enough to attempt to respond to this thread.;)

In response to Rich's comment regarding a "taller" radiator, and the "bubble" hood, I have always thought that the C-Cab radiators were interchangeable throughout production. If not, I will have to adjust my request to look for the earlier heavy duty radiators up to 1955. The leaking radiator is from a 1955, and the radiator support is exactly the same for the six cylinder truck and the V8 truck. It is only the mounting that is different to accommodate the larger capacity upper and lower tanks. Even the mounting holes for the radiator line up.

The one in the pic Rich posted seems to have the radiator surround bracket modified on the top. Part of the top of the support looks to have been cut away. I'm not sure what that's all about, but the one I have mounted on my test stand...the radiator fit just fine with no modification required for the support.

As far as "Temporary" goes...Yes, I hope this will be a temporary set-up. But, the way life goes around here, "Temporary" is a very flexible term. I believe many of us have similar circumstances. My mother (96), although in a skilled care facility, needs my attention. My health, and especially, my wife's chronic ailments, require frequent priority over my self interests. I'm already over two years into this so-called "Test" project. So, only being able to give it serious work in "fits & bits," means it will probably be sitting for long periods between work sessions.

In my younger days, when I seemed to have endless energy, required very little sleep, and was too "self-centered" to see the needs of others...I probably could have knocked out this project in a few weeks. But, thank goodness, I married well. She, while suffering through her own ills, has taught me to have compassion for others, and expanded my horizons beyond my narrow selfish project tinkering. In fact, if it was not for her, I might have fallen into a diabetic coma and died in the man cave years ago.:(

So, while "Temporary," this little project is only one corner of activity in my world. Besides, once I get this one done, there are other engines waiting to take their turn on the "test" stand.;)

So...if anyone out there, in Studebaker Land, has one of the truck radiators you are stubbing your toe on, needing the space it is occupying, let me know.:) In the mean time, I'll continue to improvise, and plod along with my "temporary" project.:)

christophe
09-20-2017, 08:28 AM
I know what you mean John. Last week I was in holiday and thought I could do a lot of things during this time. I did some of them but, one morning, I found the cat of one of our neighbours in front of our door. I knew he wasn't in good shape recently and I took him directly to the vet. We came back with good news and a treatment, just in time to hear the neighbour saying that he was looking for him cause he had to have a lethal injection!
Guess what? Our cat's count stepped up instantly from 12 to 13! The cat is still with us and is getting better every day. This took me some time and still does but had to be done. A good thing with our toys is that they can wait a little if necessary.
By the way, I like your new signature.
Nice day to all.

Skip Lackie
09-20-2017, 04:01 PM
In response to Rich's comment regarding a "taller" radiator, and the "bubble" hood, I have always thought that the C-Cab radiators were interchangeable throughout production. If not, I will have to adjust my request to look for the earlier heavy duty radiators up to 1955. The leaking radiator is from a 1955, and the radiator support is exactly the same for the six cylinder truck and the V8 truck. It is only the mounting that is different to accommodate the larger capacity upper and lower tanks. Even the mounting holes for the radiator line up.

The one in the pic Rich posted seems to have the radiator surround bracket modified on the top. Part of the top of the support looks to have been cut away. I'm not sure what that's all about, but the one I have mounted on my test stand...the radiator fit just fine with no modification required for the support.



The C-cab truck radiator support was modified by cutting away the front of the top effective with the 1956 models. It was necessary to accommodate the filler cap on the larger radiators required for the 289s. And then the new model 3E40s in 1957 required another increase in radiator size. The early radiators will fit the later radiator support, but not vice versa.

jclary
09-20-2017, 04:26 PM
The C-cab truck radiator support was modified by cutting away the front of the top effective with the 1956 models. It was necessary to accommodate the filler cap on the larger radiators required for the 289s. And then the new model 3E40s in 1957 required another increase in radiator size. The early radiators will fit the later radiator support, but not vice versa.

Thanks Skip. Exactly the kind of info sharing that makes this forum so valuable. This is a 289, but I would like to use the earlier radiator, (no later than 1955) if possible. Being a 1/2 ton truck, not subject to heavy work, I believe a well cleaned cooling system would allow the earlier radiator to be up to the task. I have the correct water manifold, and shroud, so everything should align properly to get the most efficient air flow and performance. Surely, a relaxed 289 coasting along with an overdrive transmission, should not be anymore difficult to cool than a screaming (high rev) 224 pulling a loaded ton & half Studebaker truck with no overdrive.

Skip Lackie
09-21-2017, 08:34 AM
Agree the earlier radiator will do fine. The parts book shows that the non-HD applications continued to use the earlier radiators for several more years after the modified radiator mount was introduced.

jclary
09-21-2017, 12:52 PM
Great news!!!:!: Today, I managed to move enough stuff outta th' way to hitch up the test stand and pull it out into the sunshine for the first time in months.:) I filled the radiator completely. I couldn't believe it:confused:, as beat up, and wounded as this old radiator is, the leak I first posted about is the only one!:ohmy: I stuck a toothpick in the tiny hole so I can know exactly where it is. Then I drained the radiator. Temp here is supposed to be above the 80's. I think I'll give it some assist with a heat gun to dry it out, and attempt to solder up the hole. If it holds, I have removed another excuse that makes it so easy to delay making progress on this project.;) When I do get around to seriously button up this contraption enough to run the engine, hopefully, I can add coolant with antifreeze without immediately watching it run out onto the ground.:oops:...:)

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christophe
09-22-2017, 03:02 AM
Swell! I like it when a plan comes together.
Nice day to all.

jclary
09-22-2017, 09:28 AM
Swell! I like it when a plan comes together.
Nice day to all.

Thanks for the encouragement. Yesterday, I went back out and attempted to solder the leak. TOTAL FAILURE.:(:o But, mainly due to my impatience. I had drained the radiator, prepped the repair spot, and even applied some heat to dry out the solder area. However, apparently there was still too much moisture vapor internally for the solder to adhere. I'm still not discouraged though. Next, will be to remove the radiator, truly drain/dry, and lay it flat so that gravity will be my assistant.;)

Due to the design of these radiators, the lower tank has a hump in the bottom to accommodate a hand crank. When the radiator is drained in the vertical position as it would be in a vehicle, that side of the bottom tank will still hold about a quart of liquid. Therefore, the only way to truly drain & dry the tank will be to remove and tilt it to get all the liquid over that hump in the lower tank. More later.:)

DieselJim
09-22-2017, 09:07 PM
John, you could cut the tube off at the tank and solider the holes shut. The radiator will not miss that tube.