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63looks59
09-18-2017, 07:27 PM
Hey All--- with engine in car---- is Exhaust manifold Removal passenger side GT Hawk
straight forward , or do I have to lift engine In other words, are there any challenging clearance issue

or does it " just come out" once unbolted ?

thank YOU

bensherb
09-18-2017, 10:12 PM
On my '62 it's no sweat, but I have the cast "headers" not the standard manifold. Also the '62 doesn't have the heater in the engine compartment.

41 Frank
09-18-2017, 10:33 PM
It will come out with no problem, been there,done that.

StudeRich
09-18-2017, 10:38 PM
Just be sure you have 3 of the High Temp. Thick Exhaust Pipe Flange Gaskets in hand and check the Heat Riser Valve for free motion (counterweight FORWARD when Closed, straight UP when Open) so you can order a new one if required from a Studebaker Vendor before you tear it down. :)

If you ever remove the Left Side you will have the extra Flange Gasket on hand, to go with the 3 extra Cyl. Head to Exh. Manifold Gaskets you will also have left from the Set.

http://studebakervendors.com

az64stude
09-19-2017, 09:06 AM
Try removing the two nuts w/ 9/16" socket (brass/bronze) on the manifold that attach the exhaust pipe and heat riser those are probably going to be your biggest challenge first, if they come off fine then the rest should be very easy. And yes, do pay close attention to the gaskets and heat riser valve. Good Luck

63looks59
09-19-2017, 10:23 AM
Just be sure you have 3 of the High Temp. Thick Exhaust Pipe Flange Gaskets in hand and check the Heat Riser Valve for free motion (counterweight FORWARD when Closed, straight UP when Open) so you can order a new one if required from a Studebaker Vendor before you tear it down. :)

If you ever remove the Left Side you will have the extra Flange Gasket on hand, to go with the 3 extra Cyl. Head to Exh. Manifold Gaskets you will also have left from the Set.

http://studebakervendors.com

Hello StudeRich: I did not quite understand how you described gaskets
can you re write that for me ?

( btw MY Heat riser is gone-- I have elec choke)
thanks

PackardV8
09-19-2017, 12:27 PM
If any of the bolts holding the manifold to the head don't unscrew with moderate pressure, give them a tightening pull before getting too rambunctious in the off direction. Sometimes that simple step will save snapping one, but not always.

jack vines

SScopelli
09-19-2017, 12:54 PM
..or does it " just come out" once unbolted ?
thank YOU

If the person used a non brass nut on the manifold to exhaust pipe flange stud, the "once unbolted" takes on a new meaning.
Remove the exhaust flange nuts before removing the manifold to head bolts.

If you are just replacing the top ones, you need only to loosen the bolts a few turns. The gaskets are notched, and can be replaced without complete removal.

The exhaust gaskets are beaded metal gaskets. Spray with copper gasket spray.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401266451199

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67172&d=1505842802

If you use cheap composite ones, be ready to change after 3 months of good driving. If you do use composite ones, make sure it has the inner metal ring.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182509617775

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67173&d=1505843241


67172
67173

StudeRich
09-19-2017, 03:09 PM
If you did not understand my Term: "High Temp. Thick Exhaust Pipe Flange Gaskets".

I was talking about the Brown one Sebastian (SScopelli) so kindly posted a Picture of here in post #8 for you, those are the "GOOD" ones with the Steel reinforcements, and the ONLY ones I use and sell.

I guess the term "a Picture says a Thousand Words", does do it for some people.

altair
09-20-2017, 11:00 PM
On my 259 the long studs on the passenger side are designed with 5/16 hex heads so that when the nuts are loosened the studs can be removed for additional room. I bought a 12 inch X 9/16 hex brass bar, drilled and tapped a set of 1/2 long brass nuts for the manifolds. They work great.

StudeRich
09-23-2017, 02:06 AM
On my 259 the long studs on the passenger side are designed with 5/16 hex heads so that when the nuts are loosened the studs can be removed for additional room. I bought a 12 inch X 9/16 hex brass bar, drilled and tapped a set of 1/2 long brass nuts for the manifolds. They work great.

A LOT more explanation is required here before ANYONE will even know WHAT this is about.

What long "STUDS"?
Additional ROOM for what?

If they are the Right Side Exhaust Manifold Flange to head Pipe Studs, they are 3/8 Inch Diameter Studs with 3/8" Brass Nuts and Flat Washers. :confused: No modifications are required, the Factory setup works fine.

This is a 289 V8, not a Six.

altair
09-23-2017, 07:43 PM
Firstly the OP is talking about removal of the passenger side manifold. In order to do so the exhaust header pipe must be loosened and lowered. I am not sure if on that model that is sufficient to remove the exhaust manifold. I was suggesting to additionally remove the LONG studs (3 inch) that hold the exhaust pipe, heat riser and gaskets in place. I have manifold studs that I assume are original with a 5/16 hex head to allow easy removal of the long stud to offer additional room when removing the manifold.6733867339If these aren't original they are a very handy modification. Sometimes we make modification for an additional challenge or for convenience.

SScopelli
09-25-2017, 07:31 PM
The extra long studs are not original, and it is clear that the gaskets on the pipe flange are incorrect by the way they stick past the flange surface.

In your case, I would remove the flange bolts, then the bolts to the head and lift out the manifold.

Also order the correct gaskets from the links above.

You could try to loosen both left and right pipe flange bolts and see if the cross over drops down far enough, but then you will be dancing between side to keep all the gaskets in-place and start the nuts. Because of the extra non-original length ( which is not bad) may prevent gasket replacement if the cross over does not drop sown far enough to get the gaskets past the long studs.

StudeRich
09-25-2017, 11:51 PM
Any time you have very long Exhaust Manifold Studs with Course threads like those, you know someone (Muffler Shop?) has replaced the Originals. :ohmy:

Stock Studs have a Standard blunt/cut off end with no Guide end as a GM Would, and Fine Threads with fine thread Brass Standard Nuts, not extra deep.
Those deep nuts would be a nice modification to have IF they made them in Fine Thread, so they would not loosen.

altair
09-27-2017, 12:26 AM
I bought a complete engine gasket rebuild kit from SI and those gaskets were in the kit. I agree that the original external threads were fine threads, I have several other manifolds with the fine external threads, however the internal threads into the manifold and the bolts holding the manifold to the head are course threads. Other than being non original, what are the issues having course threads holding the exhaust header to the manifolds?

63looks59
10-16-2017, 11:43 PM
ended up getting the manifold RED Hot, with Acetylene--- then that stud came out
the other one that was broke, flush---it took a pneumatic drill , then tap
All went well, never did have to
remove that manifold
thanks everybody