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View Full Version : Rear Drum removal - revisted



lelshaddai
09-12-2017, 03:25 PM
I know there are several threads on rear drum removal. I have read most of them and are trying many of the ideas. I have this rear end, 3.31, 5C, I know it is positrack and a later model. Is there anything different that would not allow normal means to pull the drums?
https://s19.postimg.org/potdofsf7/2017-09-12_10.15.40-1.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/4f5rdlc4f/)
https://s19.postimg.org/cyp5bckgz/2017-09-12_10.15.29.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/x62l3nhy7/)

This is what I am trying at this time. Both devices are on and tension.The first one we made to pull my Plymouth drums. It always worked under extreme pressure.
https://s19.postimg.org/suikse0f7/2017-09-12_10.13.46.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/j9yy5ib33/)
https://s19.postimg.org/pelv53dsz/2017-09-12_10.13.58.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/6ma01ihen/)

The second is a puller from Autozone that was recommended to use. Already as tight as my air ratchet will take it. WD40 in both, heated. Hit, not too hard on back edge by 2lb sledge.

https://s19.postimg.org/5dqptmeub/2017-09-12_13.02.06.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/tu8vo3fkv/)

Threads are in good shape and have no damage.

Other ideas short of pulling axles and pressing them out?
Any thing I need to know about the rearend? I know it needs some kind of special additive to the gear oil, what is that? Anything special on this rearend?
Jim

DEEPNHOCK
09-12-2017, 03:58 PM
<snip>
The second is a puller from Autozone that was recommended to use. Already as tight as my air ratchet will take it. WD40 in both, heated. Hit, not too hard on back edge by 2lb sledge.

https://s19.postimg.org/5dqptmeub/2017-09-12_13.02.06.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/tu8vo3fkv/)

<snip>


OK... Here's a suggestion or three...
One.. This is the puller you should be using.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/386253.jpg

OK... Use what you have... Do this....
(make sure the axle nut is on backwards and flush with the end of the axle so you don't mushroom the axle out)
Crank your breaker bar as tight as you can without hurting yourself.
Get a bigger hammer.
Smack the end of the puller..straight on.. parallel to the axle.
No juice. No heat.
Crank it and smack it.
Don't be shy. HIT IT!
Tighten it again and HIT IT!
Then... Go have a nice cold adult beverage and leave it torqued up overnight.
Have had them pop at the strangest times before.

Alan
09-12-2017, 04:02 PM
You don't hit it on the back by anything. You use that sledge on the end of the puller where you have the breaker bar and socket. The hydraulic unit should have worked, I use a 5 ton myself. That is the reason I put Furd 9" in every thing.

lelshaddai
09-12-2017, 06:07 PM
With a little work and help they are off. The FWH puller worked on the one side by banging on the puller and tightening. Thank you for that help. The puller was moved to the other side and it still would come off. A friend brought a torch over and it was heated, evenly without ever going red, and with more pressure and banging it popped off. Good news it is done.

Another question, are the wheel cylinders the same on the self energizing rear brakes on a champion and commander?
Jim

StudeRich
09-12-2017, 06:17 PM
I sure would NOT want to be standing there pumping that hydraulic jack with no Nut on the end of the Axle, when that baby BLOWS! :woot:

I think that 5C Tag is really a 45C, it's very dirty there. But it is not in the usual place high on the Right.

My guess is this is not a Late model but a Mid-year range one due to the Ring and Pinion numbers on the Tag, the Latest ones have Only the Ratio.

Either way I don't see any reason why this Hub and Drum has not blown off yet though, just get out of it's WAY! :ohmy:

I assume that you already have the Brake Shoe adjusters all the way loose, if not you need to.

acolds
09-12-2017, 06:24 PM
If you enlarge the picture of puller with jack the nut is on to prevent drum from flying off and doing harm to operator

lelshaddai
09-12-2017, 06:28 PM
Learned long ago to put the nuts on. No danger there.

gordr
09-12-2017, 07:25 PM
With a little work and help they are off. The FWH puller worked on the one side by banging on the puller and tightening. Thank you for that help. The puller was moved to the other side and it still would come off. A friend brought a torch over and it was heated, evenly without ever going red, and with more pressure and banging it popped off. Good news it is done.

Another question, are the wheel cylinders the same on the self energizing rear brakes on a champion and commander?
Jim

Pretty sure they are not.

StudeRich
09-12-2017, 10:07 PM
Larger Drums, Larger Shoes require Larger Wheel Cylinders on V8 Cars.

On the Finned Drums you pulled off, I cannot see the Backing Plates so it's impossible to tell if they are eccentric adjusted 11 Inch Drums (for front Disc.) or Star Wheel Adjusted 10 Inch 289 Engine Rear Drums.

lelshaddai
09-13-2017, 08:48 AM
https://s19.postimg.org/3zdy73sf7/2017-09-12_14.19.32.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/pykcub99b/)https://s19.postimg.org/gs227140z/2017-09-12_14.19.41.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/ijv11xndr/)

altair
09-13-2017, 12:11 PM
What every body says about the drum flying off, I was removing one with the puller torqued up with no nut and with out warning a big bang and the assembly flew about 3 feet, lucky I was out of range.

lelshaddai
09-13-2017, 12:35 PM
I learned the same way. Pulling a 53 Plymouth hub with 8 tons of pressure. It popped during the night and slammed into the toolbox and hit the wall.
Not anymore.

55 56 PREZ 4D
09-13-2017, 12:36 PM
When it is time to install the drums. NO OIL, GREASE, LUBE of any sort on the axle taper or inside the drum taper. Clean and dry.

StudeRich
09-13-2017, 12:41 PM
Ah, there you go! The close ups of the outside of the backing plates shows that they are from a '63 289, with the Automatic Adjusters, but the rear end is not new enough to have NO Gear tooth Numbers, so probably not '64 or newer.