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lelshaddai
08-21-2017, 06:21 PM
I am ready to pull the 289 out of the 53 Commander. The front end, radiator, fenders all is removed. Down to just the frame and the body shell behind the engine. I have pulled my Volvo (4 cyl) and Metropolitan (4 cyl) engines but they were easy to do with the flat heads. Where are the best points to connect the chains for the lift on the 289?

https://s19.postimg.org/ked5kiv4z/2017-08-11_10.18.08.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/ah24rgnj3/)
https://s19.postimg.org/94kfpkq3n/2017-08-11_10.18.23.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/7piv0up0f/)

sals54
08-21-2017, 06:46 PM
With the engine bay that clear, you can hardly go wrong. But I would recommend using the intake bolt, pass side rear, and driver side front. Replace with longer bolts and use a chain that will clear the carb.

mbstude
08-21-2017, 06:48 PM
With the engine bay that clear, you can hardly go wrong. But I would recommend using the intake bolt, pass side rear, and driver side front. Replace with longer bolts and use a chain that will clear the carb.

That's what I do. But I usually pull the carb just to be safe.

StudeRich
08-21-2017, 07:03 PM
Since you are pulling the Converter Housing and Converter with it, slightly to the Rear of center would be good, a Chain under the Intake also works.

Or with Valve Covers off, you can pick and choose any pair of Head Bolts to balance the Engine, but as has been said, this will be an easy one with no sheet metal in the way so anything safe will work. :cool:

raoul5788
08-21-2017, 08:45 PM
A load leveler makes it easy to find the right balance so as to keep things "even".66394

alaipairod
08-21-2017, 09:16 PM
A load leveler makes it easy to find the right balance so as to keep things "even".66394

I tried to used this load leveler to pull the 289 from my '57GH...........The engine is too heavy, you can't crank the bar until you take the load off of it.
That means that you have to set the engine down, make the adjustment, hope that it's right, and then lift......I got the engine out.......But I will use my conventional chains to put the engine back in.......My neighbor was gifted with the "load leveler"...........

lelshaddai
08-21-2017, 11:37 PM
The transmission is coming out with it. Flight o matic.

StudeRich
08-21-2017, 11:59 PM
OK, so #2 Intake Bolt hole with a Bolt and a Flat Washer on the Left and Rearmost Intake Bolt hole on the Right. :)

kamzack
08-22-2017, 01:11 AM
Just reinstalled my Hudson 8 with trans back into da car Sunday evening and would have been difficult without a leveler and being able to adjust on the fly and doing it alone. I keep plenty of lubricant on the shaft so it screws easily. This engine/trans combo is about 900 lbs.. So I'd say something wrong with da leveler. I've seen one with da crank on it and very soon da crank handle wasn't.
Kim

Noxnabaker
08-22-2017, 01:56 AM
Just out of curiousity, you wrote that you have a Volvo 4 cyl flathead?
What kind of Volvo is that?

DEEPNHOCK
08-22-2017, 05:37 AM
A load leveler makes it easy to find the right balance so as to keep things "even".66394


I tried to used this load leveler to pull the 289 from my '57GH...........The engine is too heavy, you can't crank the bar until you take the load off of it.
That means that you have to set the engine down, make the adjustment, hope that it's right, and then lift......I got the engine out.......But I will use my conventional chains to put the engine back in.......My neighbor was gifted with the "load leveler"...........

Your friend did you no favors by exposing you to junk tools.
The tool design shown is (IMOHO) the best way to install or pull a Stude engine.
But... You do need a good load balancer, and not some thing made with all thread and welded nuts.
It laso helps to have some never seize on the threads.
You should (and need to) be able to reposition it while removing the engine/trans.

lelshaddai
08-22-2017, 08:13 AM
Sorry, I did not mean a flathead 4 in the Volvo or Metropolitan. The Volvo is a 4 Cylinder B20 (in my 62, 544) and the Metropolitan is an Austin Healy 4 cylinder. What I meant is after you take off the valve cover is is very flat and easy to connect to. I have a load leveler that worked for the Volvo setup.

https://s19.postimg.org/tmisy5eeb/2016-06-25_12.25.49.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/tza74bwnz/)
https://s19.postimg.org/q83c2q04j/20130706_150809.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

jclary
08-22-2017, 08:28 AM
Sorry, I did not mean a flathead 4 in the Volvo or Metropolitan. The Volvo is a 4 Cylinder B20 (in my 62, 544) and the Metropolitan is an Austin Healy 4 cylinder. What I meant is after you take off the valve cover is is very flat and easy to connect to. I have a load leveler that worked for the Volvo setup.



Your load leveler looks very capable. Even the cheap harbor freight leveler is adequate if properly lubricated. With the previously shown HF leveler, it is capable of using a four point attachment. I would remove the carburetor, and any other items that could be damaged, or snagged while lifting. I had some pics, but they were locked up in the photobucket "ransom-ware" attempt to extort money. I have the pics on older computers, but have not gotten around to transferring them to this computer.

I have lifted Studebaker V8's by temporarily using longer bolts on the four corners of the intake manifold. I have also lifted by slipping a chain loop under the intake, but I think the bolts on four corners is best.

lelshaddai
08-22-2017, 08:54 AM
If there are any pictures out there I would like to see them. If you have Photobucket try postimage.com to post with.

dpson
08-22-2017, 09:03 AM
66401

66403

66402

I pulled the intake manifold (it was coming off anyway) and used the bolts on the four corners.

I've also seen an engine removal plate used, which was bolted to the intake manifold using the four carb mounting bolts. They looked kind of small to me, but it worked.

jrlemke
08-22-2017, 09:12 AM
I usually use a plate on the carb mounting surface. Never lost one yet, pulled over 50 v-8's that way including several early hemis! I also saved many of the brackets found on most 70's motors, they come in handy for motors w/o intakes and inline motors. Jim

lelshaddai
08-22-2017, 09:29 AM
Great pics. I will be taking the intake off as well. I have a four barrel intake to place on. Another note. I have seen different colors for the engine. What is the correct scheme for the 62 1/2 - 64 full flow 289? Engine color , valve covers, fan, breathers......

StudeRich
08-22-2017, 01:59 PM
Great pics. I will be taking the intake off as well. I have a four barrel intake to place on. Another note. I have seen different colors for the engine. What is the correct scheme for the 62 1/2 - 64 full flow 289? Engine color , valve covers, fan, breathers......

If you ever saw an engine here in the incorrect COLORS someone would certainly mention it.
The differences you may have seen are not Late '62 to '64 V8's if the they do not look very similar to Dpson's (Dan's) EARLY '62 Engine.

Black with Yellow, different year range... different C O L O R.

dpson
08-23-2017, 07:04 AM
One additional suggestion; if you are pulling the automatic transmission with the engine, you might want to drain the transmision fluid before removal, otherwise once the driveshaft slipyoke is pulled out of the transmission tailshaft you will find that the there is nothing holding the fluid in the tranny and out it will pour. The higher you lift the front of the engine, to clear the front crossmember, the more will pour out all over the garage floor. Ask me how I know...

lelshaddai
08-23-2017, 07:27 AM
Yes, I can see how you know. When I pulled the shaft to prepare for the removal it started to leak out. Still need to drain it but very sound advice.

DEEPNHOCK
08-23-2017, 07:58 AM
I always double sandwich bag with a couple of rubber bands.
Holds it all in OK, and keeps the crud out.


One additional suggestion; if you are pulling the automatic transmission with the engine, you might want to drain the transmision fluid before removal, otherwise once the driveshaft slipyoke is pulled out of the transmission tailshaft you will find that the there is nothing holding the fluid in the tranny and out it will pour. The higher you lift the front of the engine, to clear the front crossmember, the more will pour out all over the garage floor. Ask me how I know...

jrlemke
08-23-2017, 08:14 AM
H/F has plastic plugs to plug the rear of the trans. -Jim

Buzzard
08-23-2017, 09:54 AM
Good pics. I haven't seen a "Mowog Green" Austin motor for decades-brings back my beginning in playing with cars.
Bill

sweetolbob
08-23-2017, 10:08 AM
I always double sandwich bag with a couple of rubber bands.
Holds it all in OK, and keeps the crud out.

I use the sandwich bag trick but with electrical tape. Same results. I've used the carb plate on 4-bbl manifolds for a number of years with good results. Be sure the bolts are snugged to keep the load even. If I don't have a manifold I can use, I always try to find bolts that will hold in shear (90 deg give/take) to the lift. I pulled a 401 Buick with tranny many years back to put in a 56 Chebby Pickup and one of the intake bolts stripped out. Not a pretty sight, luckily no one was close enough to get hurt.

Bob

lelshaddai
08-23-2017, 10:23 AM
Yes, the little Austin engines are fun to work on. Not much to them. "0 to 60 in never" :D