Best connection points to pull 289

[lelshaddai]

I am ready to pull the 289 out of the 53 Commander. The front end, radiator, fenders all is removed. Down to just the frame and the body shell behind the engine. I have pulled my Volvo (4 cyl) and Metropolitan (4 cyl) engines but they were easy to do with the flat heads. Where are the best points to connect the chains for the lift on the 289?

[sals54]

With the engine bay that clear, you can hardly go wrong. But I would recommend using the intake bolt, pass side rear, and driver side front. Replace with longer bolts and use a chain that will clear the carb.

[mbstude]

With the engine bay that clear, you can hardly go wrong. But I would recommend using the intake bolt, pass side rear, and driver side front. Replace with longer bolts and use a chain that will clear the carb.

That's what I do. But I usually pull the carb just to be safe.

[StudeRich]

Since you are pulling the Converter Housing and Converter with it, slightly to the Rear of center would be good, a Chain under the Intake also works.

Or with Valve Covers off, you can pick and choose any pair of Head Bolts to balance the Engine, but as has been said, this will be an easy one with no sheet metal in the way so anything safe will work.

[raoul5788]

A load leveler makes it easy to find the right balance so as to keep things "even".

[alaipairod]

A load leveler makes it easy to find the right balance so as to keep things "even".[ATTACH=CONFIG]66394[/ATTACH]

I tried to used this load leveler to pull the 289 from my '57GH...........The engine is too heavy, you can't crank the bar until you take the load off of it.
That means that you have to set the engine down, make the adjustment, hope that it's right, and then lift......I got the engine out.......But I will use my conventional chains to put the engine back in.......My neighbor was gifted with the "load leveler"...........

[lelshaddai]

The transmission is coming out with it. Flight o matic.

[StudeRich]

OK, so #2 Intake Bolt hole with a Bolt and a Flat Washer on the Left and Rearmost Intake Bolt hole on the Right.

[kamzack]

Just reinstalled my Hudson 8 with trans back into da car Sunday evening and would have been difficult without a leveler and being able to adjust on the fly and doing it alone. I keep plenty of lubricant on the shaft so it screws easily. This engine/trans combo is about 900 lbs.. So I'd say something wrong with da leveler. I've seen one with da crank on it and very soon da crank handle wasn't.
Kim

[Noxnabaker]

Just out of curiousity, you wrote that you have a Volvo 4 cyl flathead?
What kind of Volvo is that?

[DEEPNHOCK]

A load leveler makes it easy to find the right balance so as to keep things "even".[ATTACH=CONFIG]66394[/ATTACH]

I tried to used this load leveler to pull the 289 from my '57GH...........The engine is too heavy, you can't crank the bar until you take the load off of it.
That means that you have to set the engine down, make the adjustment, hope that it's right, and then lift......I got the engine out.......But I will use my conventional chains to put the engine back in.......My neighbor was gifted with the "load leveler"...........

Your friend did you no favors by exposing you to junk tools.
The tool design shown is (IMOHO) the best way to install or pull a Stude engine.
But... You do need a good load balancer, and not some thing made with all thread and welded nuts.
It laso helps to have some never seize on the threads.
You should (and need to) be able to reposition it while removing the engine/trans.

[lelshaddai]

Sorry, I did not mean a flathead 4 in the Volvo or Metropolitan. The Volvo is a 4 Cylinder B20 (in my 62, 544) and the Metropolitan is an Austin Healy 4 cylinder. What I meant is after you take off the valve cover is is very flat and easy to connect to. I have a load leveler that worked for the Volvo setup.

[jclary]

Sorry, I did not mean a flathead 4 in the Volvo or Metropolitan. The Volvo is a 4 Cylinder B20 (in my 62, 544) and the Metropolitan is an Austin Healy 4 cylinder. What I meant is after you take off the valve cover is is very flat and easy to connect to. I have a load leveler that worked for the Volvo setup.

Your load leveler looks very capable. Even the cheap harbor freight leveler is adequate if properly lubricated. With the previously shown HF leveler, it is capable of using a four point attachment. I would remove the carburetor, and any other items that could be damaged, or snagged while lifting. I had some pics, but they were locked up in the photobucket "ransom-ware" attempt to extort money. I have the pics on older computers, but have not gotten around to transferring them to this computer.

I have lifted Studebaker V8's by temporarily using longer bolts on the four corners of the intake manifold. I have also lifted by slipping a chain loop under the intake, but I think the bolts on four corners is best.

[lelshaddai]

If there are any pictures out there I would like to see them. If you have Photobucket try postimage.com to post with.

[dpson]

I pulled the intake manifold (it was coming off anyway) and used the bolts on the four corners.

I've also seen an engine removal plate used, which was bolted to the intake manifold using the four carb mounting bolts. They looked kind of small to me, but it worked.