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Jp111
08-20-2017, 10:41 AM
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66346&d=1503173255&thumb=1 (http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66346&d=1503173255)http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66347&d=1503173310&thumb=1 (http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66347&d=1503173310)Hello everyone. I have a steering wheel issue. I have a 1942 Commander and am having a helluva time trying to get the steering wheel off. I am down through three layers, all with the same bolt size, but the puller I got from Stude can't work on this one. First there are no holes to latch onto, second I don't know where the large bolt you would have to screw could attach. I tried with my big socket, 1 and 5/16 inch, but nothing doing. How can I get this off? It is counterclockwise yes? Why does this bolt have zigzag cuts on the inner part? There is a second bolt under that as you can see and not sure about that one either. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, JP






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unclemiltie
08-20-2017, 10:59 AM
You need a puller like Chuck Collins has pictured on his help pages, https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/html/pages/swpuller.html

Be careful so as not to ruin the threads and the shaft. I generally loosen the nut and soak the shaft with something like PB Blaster for a couple days to loosen up any rust on the splined shaft.

dpson
08-20-2017, 11:28 AM
They make a steering wheel puller for Model A Fords that might work on your 1942.

Here is a link to one of the vendors who sells them: http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/steering-wheel-puller

Do a Google search and your will find others with similar products.

Jp111
08-20-2017, 04:39 PM
Thanks guys. I do have an additional question on that. The long pin that seems to go down into the hub or column- what does it latch onto as there is nothing but hollow space. Unless there is a 1 5/16th socket at the end of that pin and you crank that at the top? I can't find any picture to show exactly what is happening. I already spent on one puller that didn't di anything. Your right though- I don't want to strip the column or the threads! So a big socket wrench even with PB Blaster is not a good idea?

Corvanti
08-20-2017, 06:04 PM
i wouldn't have posted about the PB Blaster, etc. on the other thread if i thought it wasn't a good idea to try. i've used it on double "nutted" rusty bolts in the past few years. if it doesn't work, the most you'd be out is the cost of a can of the PB Blaster. and i can guarantee you'll find more uses for the product. i did on the '40 Champion as well as many other vehicles.:)

nvonada
08-21-2017, 06:04 AM
If you can get one an impact wrench will take that right off. Barring that put your socket wrench on and bump the handle with something like a chunk of 2x4. That nut was intended to be self-locking and has been on there a really long time but it probably is not really rusted. My "puller" cost me about $8 at Harbor Frieght but I already had the pitman arm puller:
http://stude.vonadatech.com/images/steeringwheel/small/VT_20130121_6097.JPG
Pictures of my process here:
http://stude.vonadatech.com/wp/steering-wheel-removal/

Nathan

Jp111
08-21-2017, 08:40 AM
You guys are all awesome, thanks!

jclary
08-21-2017, 09:14 AM
My oldest Studebaker is 1948, so, I don't know if there is much different between mine and your 1942. But, every steering wheel, I have pulled, has a strong spring underneath. So, once you pop the wheel up off the shaft, be prepared to deal with the spring.:ohmy: It shouldn't be a problem until you need to reinstall the steering wheel. Then you will wonder why it was so difficult to remove?:confused:
Because you will have to push down so hard to get the nut back on the steering shaft.:p

Hallabutt
08-21-2017, 03:10 PM
Disregard my comments on the general forum sight, I didn't know that there was a duplicate post.