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DougHolverson
08-15-2017, 11:05 AM
I'm back to picking up the pieces on the Silver Hawk that bonehead bodyman screwed me over on. One of the things is that he let it sit so long that some of the valves are stuck. Any way to loosen up a valve that's stuck open without taking the head off? This is the 289 and not the flathead.

RadioRoy
08-15-2017, 11:52 AM
How about taking off the valve cover and shooting some Kroil on the stuck valve stems?

altair
08-15-2017, 12:09 PM
You can tap them down with a brass or composition hammer and keep turning the engine over until they are all loose (with lubrication)

StudeRich
08-15-2017, 02:40 PM
After doing your best to get some Marvel, ATF, Kroil, PB Blaster or other Penetrant to go UNDER the Valve Seals onto the Valve Stems and soak a bit.

Try to a get 1 1/2 Inch 3/4 Drive Socket, 1/2 to 3/4 Adapter and a 1/2" Drive Breaker Bar onto the Crank Bolt and slowly turn the engine while someone watches each Rocker Arm go all the way down and back up, then mark each with Chalk or Crayon until all 16 work.

I assume you have already squirted Penetrant onto the INBOARD side of each Piston Top to Lube and free the Rings and Cyl. walls, if not you need to before turning the engine. Use a 2-3 Inch long small vacuum/windshield washer hose on the end of a Pump Oil Can to do the best job of that.

Mike Van Veghten
08-15-2017, 04:11 PM
Funny...that's what valve "seals" are for...to keep excessive oil (and other miscellaneous stuff) out of the guide. How you gonna get any spray around two "S" curves and into a gap of less thAn .002 ?
One would have better luck spraying something in from the other end...

OR...just do it right and remove the head and go from there. There's one thing about being a CASO, then there's just cheap and half-a____..!

Mike

Mrs K Corbin
08-16-2017, 06:45 AM
Remove the rocker assy and push-rods (mark the rods per hole). Use Plenty of PB Blaster, etc., A Rubber Hammer to knock each valve down, and a small prybar to pull it back up. Make sure that the cylinder (piston) in question is down so that you don't hit it with the valve. Do this on every valve, so that anything trying to stick, won't.

finally check for bent push-rods.

Hopefully you don't already have a bent valve.

JoeHall
08-16-2017, 07:37 AM
How long did he let the car sit, without turning the motor over?

GrumpyOne
08-16-2017, 04:27 PM
If the suspected issue is gum and varnish, I would spray (sparingly) each valve stem preferably on through the intake and exhaust ports. You will have to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.

If the suspected cause is rust, remove the heads and disassemble them on the bench and proceed as needed.

wittsend
08-16-2017, 05:59 PM
How long did he let the car sit, without turning the motor over?

According to another, older post he said it was 11 years (at that time, so add a few more). Here is the story. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?91511-Broken-deal&p=951865#post951865 Read in particular posts 1, 7 and (12) 13 to grasp the full situation.

mbstude
08-16-2017, 06:36 PM
I'm back to picking up the pieces on the Silver Hawk that bonehead bodyman screwed me over on. One of the things is that he let it sit so long that some of the valves are stuck.

Not to start anything, I'm only curious. How is it the bodyman's fault when you let him keep the car for 11 years?

When I was a teenager, I bought a '58 Commander with a 259 that had been sitting for 3 decades. We got it running with 2 or 3 stuck valves. I mixed ATF into the gasoline and after running for about half an hour, the valves freed up and all of the mosquitoes were dead within a half mile radius.

Looking back, I'm lucky that I didn't end up with bent valves or pushrods. Now that I know better and have a little more understanding of how things work, I'd pull the heads and do it right, especially if I planned to drive the car as much as I drove that '58.

DougHolverson
08-18-2017, 12:05 PM
Well, it's like seven years, considering that I didn't pester him for two years after his shop burned down and for another two years after a tornado totaled his house. Most of the rest was "Oh yeah, I'll get going on it in the next couple of weeks…." This is a sore point, please do not add insult to injury.

Anyway, earlier in the year, a concoction of ATF and acetone was poured down the intake and things just sit a while. A few weeks ago I took the shroud and radiator out and I took a big wrench to the front pulley and saw that the engine turned a little. Since post #1, I tapped on the valves with a hammer and 2x4. I nudged the engine back and forth until the two stuck valves popped up and the engine could turn all the way around four times over. I squirted oil down the spark plug holes. I'm going to try the starter again in a couple of days.

I hung the aftermarket rear fender on the Hawk yesterday just to see what if looks like. Missing parts that burned down with the shop are the driver's side tail-fin, the heater core, the gas filler door with hinge and those goofy springs.

poweroptions
08-18-2017, 12:42 PM
On the farm and dad being a diesel mechanic Korean war veteran, he would pour straight transmission fluid down the throat of the carb while revving the engine. He sometimes would pour several quarts down the carb. You won't have any mosquitoes either. The smoke it makes will send most people running. This worked 9 out of 10 times on all of our old farm trucks that would sit up for long periods of time.

DougHolverson
08-18-2017, 01:54 PM
Thanks for that advice. I'll try it if I can get the engine running. I'm about ready to haul the gas tank to a shop and get it cleaned out.

I do admire a lot of those Korea War guys, especially the ones who learned a valuable trade in the service. It seems like most of the first generation of TV repairmen learned electronics during that war.

poweroptions
08-18-2017, 02:20 PM
Thanks for that advice. I'll try it if I can get the engine running. I'm about ready to haul the gas tank to a shop and get it cleaned out.

I do admire a lot of those Korea War guys, especially the ones who learned a valuable trade in the service. It seems like most of the first generation of TV repairmen learned electronics during that war.

You bet, it's because of him that I learned to work on everything we owned. People marvel that I keep the cars trucks tractor and bulldozer all going myself. We never took anything to town. If he couldn't get it running it was pushed off to the hedgerow. PS I was born and raised in Falls City and our farmground is what is now Indian Cave State Park. I just saw you were from Omaha. GO BIG RED

DougHolverson
08-20-2017, 10:07 PM
The started turns over the motor without and then with spark plugs. As soon as I get a carburetor together I'm going to see if it fires.

starliner62
08-21-2017, 04:14 AM
I am having this issue with my 59 Ranchero/aka my Studebaker hauler. After sitting for too long because I was too cheap to buy a 500 dollar radiator, I found a nice aluminum replacement on Ebay.
I fired her up and immediately bent a half a dozen push rods. After getting the valves freed up, I did get the old girl running. I kept the valve covers off for quite a while, added marvel mystery oil to the fuel, poured a bottle down the carburetor while it was running and it seemed to work well. I bent two more a couple of days later, got those replaced and killed more mosquitoes by running some atf through the carb.
I am happy to say that as of yesterday, so far, so good. I actually drove the car around the block a couple of times.
This is not the way i usually would have done it. I should have pulled the heads and done things properly. If this works I'll be happy. Now to find some decent headers or exhaust manifolds. I'll probably have to pull the heads off anyway to remove broken bolts when I try to remove the manifolds. (famous FE ford design)

DougHolverson
08-24-2017, 08:36 PM
Since last time I went through the WW carburetor and I also replaced the points and condenser. I'm at the oddball place where it almost runs. It alternates between almost starting enough to kick out the starter and starting right up and running for half a second before gasping and dying, no matter what the throttle position is. I have three suspicions. One is a weird electrical gremlin. Another is a weak fuel pump. The last is the the needle and seat are messing up and it's getting too much gas. I'm bringing up a VOM and a pressure gauge tomorrow. Any ideas here?

57pack
08-24-2017, 10:29 PM
Had a similar issue when I first started my Packard after it had sat for a few years.
It would start and run a few seconds and would throttle down and sputter and stall.
Found the choke butterfly wasn't opening up. As soon as I held the choke open, she ran fine.

doofus
08-25-2017, 06:09 AM
Doug, fill a cheap squirt bottle 1/4 full of fresh gas. with ign. switch on use a remote starter switch and crank engine. giving a shot of extra fuel when needed. might have stuck rings and low comp, this will help it to fire and keep running. Be Careful!!! Luck Doofus

DougHolverson
08-25-2017, 09:13 AM
The choke thing makes me want to ask, which way does that spring in the Stromberg WW choke supposed to go around?

wittsend
08-25-2017, 03:35 PM
The choke thing makes me want to ask, which way does that spring in the Stromberg WW choke supposed to go around?

Well, logic would imply that if it is cool/cold the spring should be positioned towards the choke closing. Regarding the other aspects of the fuel system:

1. If the float bowl is filling you should see fuel spray from the accelerator pump.

2. If in doubt remove the carburetor top and see if the bowl is full. Or, at your own risk fill the bowl (as mentioned) with a squeeze bottle through the bowl vent. At least for a short period of time is should run (all other aspects being good).

3. If the car still won't start look at the electrical side. Removing one spark plug, grounding it (vice grips work) with the wire attached have someone crank it over at night and look for a strong (bluish, not orange) spark.

What will almost 100% be guaranteed to not work (though I've seen it many times) is to not follow sound recommendations and hope the next attempt to start will be different.

StudeRich
08-25-2017, 04:07 PM
The choke thing makes me want to ask, which way does that spring in the Stromberg WW choke supposed to go around?

The "Loop" (hooked end) of the spring faces AFT./Left and moves Counterclockwise which makes the Choke Close, usually when on the "Rich" Side of the center mark on the Housing. This is the ONLY way it will work.


Since last time I went through the WW carburetor and I also replaced the points and condenser. I'm at the oddball place where it almost runs. It alternates between almost starting enough to kick out the starter and starting right up and running for half a second before gasping and dying,/Cut/

If it is ONLY running while in the "START" mode on the Ign. Switch and stops when going to "RUN" position, the Ignition Resister is dead
or there is an "Open" circuit in the Coil to Ign. Sw. wire and it's connections. :ohmy:

DougHolverson
08-25-2017, 05:00 PM
Out of curiosity, I replaced the ballast resistor with a new one. The Hawk still wouldn't run. I had one more step to get out of my system, I shorted a wire across the new resistor, and the Hawk started and ran. So I'm asking if it's the resistor or a weak coil? The old resistor was apparently rusted open. The new resistor measures 2.9 ohms. The coil measures 1.9 ohms across the primary. Also 5.2 volts there with the resistor in place.

StudeRich
08-25-2017, 05:06 PM
WAY TOO much Resistance and too Low Voltage with that incorrect Resistor, normal is I believe around 1.2 to 1.5 OHM and around 8-9 Volts.

Also, if you have a "built in" Resistance in your Replacement Coil, you probably need no Resistor.

DougHolverson
08-25-2017, 08:48 PM
I put the new resistor and coil in and the Hawk starts and runs rough so far.

I put the radiator, fan, and shroud back on. I start filling up the radiator and water starts dribbling out of the passenger side of the engine block. I'm hoping that it's just a freeze plug and not a cracked block. I'll start a new thread after I get a better look tomorrow.

doofus
08-26-2017, 07:05 AM
The bolt in copper freeze plugs can be a life saver here. Luck Doofus