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tomnoller
07-24-2017, 04:15 PM
Seems every time I drive the (63) Avanti, I'm having to hold the switch from behind to keep it from turning in the bezel and have spent too many hours trying to seat the dad-gummed thing enough to not worry about it.

Is there a suitable substitute for the ones Studebaker used? Thanks!

rstrasser
07-24-2017, 06:09 PM
As you are aware off the switch should not turn. Sounds like the tit on the Bezel is not engaging in the Square hole that is at 12 O:Clock in the dash board. Or the tit is broken off.
Also there is a metal bar just behind the ignition switch. If the switch comes adrift from the bezel sparks will result. Either apply tape to the bar or to the wires on the switch.
There is a spring between the switch and the dash board which keeps tension on the switch so that the tit on the Bezel stays in the hole.
Studebaker International among others have new Bezels.
Instructions are in the Avanti Shop manual on replacing the switch.
Ron

StudeRich
07-24-2017, 09:44 PM
There is nothing wrong with the Original Switch DESIGN, it is the Material that the bean counters chose to use for the Chromed BEZEL that is the problem.

Chromed Pot Metal is way too brittle to last in this situation, get the billet Aluminum replacement ones from a Studebaker Vendor. :!:

doofus
07-25-2017, 06:47 AM
More than likely the notch at 12 oclock above the ign. switch hole is wallowed out. wifes 57 switch is always crooked because of this problem. fiberglass dash is fragile after all these years.been thinking about fix but not hi on priority list. if building a Stude with 'glass dash check that switch hole now! wallowed "Tit Hole" will need repair. suggestions welcome for "In Car Repair". Doofus

jclary
07-25-2017, 07:40 AM
I Don't have an Avanti to examine, but how about constructing a "New Hole?" Is there room to take, say...a small square of sheet aluminum, cut/file & shape a hole with the appropriate locator tab, and install it behind the current stripped hole in the dash??? If there is not enough thickness to fasten it with screws, perhaps epoxy in place using something like JB Weld, or something similar.

In my mind (a strange place), I'm thinking you could remove the ignition switch, and "test" fit the accuracy of your repair piece out of the car, before installing it.

JWL4541
07-25-2017, 01:07 PM
I was experiencing the ignition switch moving on the instrument panel when the key was turned to the START position. It was a replacement type that looked like an original but the bezel screwed onto the switch body. Problem was the bezel would bottom out before it got tight. I thought about an original switch, but finally decided on a universal one. To ease installing it, I made up some pig-tail leads. These leads were attached to the switch and after the switch was installed the connection to the wiring was made. I also got some rubber hose, cut a slit in it and placed it over the metal brace. I am happy with the result even though it is not original. Function over form. I wonder how many Avantis have had an electrical fire and burned up due to the switch coming loose and shorting out on the metal brace? JWL

tomnoller
07-25-2017, 05:50 PM
Thank you so much, Guys! Always an inspiration.

Studebakercenteroforegon
07-25-2017, 06:29 PM
There is nothing wrong with the Original Switch DESIGN, it is the Material that the bean counters chose to use for the Chromed BEZEL that is the problem.

Chromed Pot Metal is way too brittle to last in this situation, get the billet Aluminum replacement ones from a Studebaker Vendor. :!:
Technically speaking, the chromed die cast zinc bezel is not brittle - it's actually quite ductile, and that is the problem. It deforms at the thin cross section that forms the features that attach to the switch, and will eventually break. No question about it, though, the available replacement bezels machined from aluminum stock are far more trustworthy.