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63 Lark. Big interference issues

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  • Steering: 63 Lark. Big interference issues

    Hey all. Have a 2dr 63 Lark 170ci with the fancy aluminum center section trans (15pan bolts). I replaced the oil pan after it was punctured by either the tie rod or the pitman arm. When I put the motor back in, I replaced the worn engine and trans insulators. Thinking that the worn rubber was the culprit. Unfortunately the oil pan still doesnt clear the steering. Obviously the pan cleared for 54 years, so I cant figure it out. Any help would be appreciated

  • #2
    If the only issue is clearance you could simply shim the motor mounts and the trans mount "up" just enough to get the clearance. Now if you're looking for the reason for the interference I can't help. These vehicles have been around forever so there's no telling what someone else has done to the Lark.
    Two other items: As the front suspension slowly weakens and sags it moves the steering components up. Second, some one (long ago) could have used the wrong pan???

    treblig

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    • #3
      Check the front motor mount 'brackets' that are bolted to the engine. I've seen these similar brackets on a V8 crack and rotate up which would conceivably make the engine sit lower.

      Yes, it's not as probable on the lighter OHV 6 cylinder, but at least something to check.
      Paul
      Winston-Salem, NC
      Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
      Check out my YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/r1lark

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      • #4
        I am guessing you mean interference fore and aft. Did you put your new transmission mounts on the correct side? The mounting bolts to the bell housing are offset. Switching them from side to side will push the engine forward. There is already not a lot of clearance between the tie rod ends and the pan, in fact you must rotate the tie rod clamps one way or the other so that they will not scrape the pan on turns.

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        • #5
          .....or are you talking about the tie rod clamps that secure the ends ? Make sure the bolts are low and parallel the ground... I've seen many an oil pan with scrapes from the clamp bolts..

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          • #6
            You COULD have the wrong Oil Pan!

            You COULD have the WRONG front Engine Insulators.

            You COULD have put the Engine Mounts into the LEFT frame Bracket holes for RHD instead of the RIGHT side ones.

            The Aluminum Case AS8-35 Flight-O-Matic uses the same 532427 1/2 inch spacer as all Models under the Left Rear Engine Mount, maybe it is on the wrong side or missing?

            Yes, definitely check those Tie Rod end CLAMPS for facing DOWN and check for damaged or mounted incorrectly, Block Brackets on the Front of the Engine.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner
            SDC Member Since 1967

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            • #7
              Thanks for all the replys. I have the bolts facing away, they were definitely what punctured the last pan. I moved them in my effort for clearance. I will check and see if the trans mounts are backwards. There is a little bit of an arc in the tie rod(s) not sure if that is how they come or not. As for shimming the mounts, I have not tried that yet, in theory, I could shim the top and bottom of the motor mounts and maybe get a half inch of extra height, barring any interference from the firewall. I'll get some pictures in tomorrow. I'm close to massaging the pan in effort for that last little bit.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by TheGrateRonzini View Post
                Thanks for all the replys. I have the bolts facing away, they were definitely what punctured the last pan. I moved them in my effort for clearance. I will check and see if the trans mounts are backwards. There is a little bit of an arc in the tie rod(s) not sure if that is how they come or not. As for shimming the mounts, I have not tried that yet, in theory, I could shim the top and bottom of the motor mounts and maybe get a half inch of extra height, barring any interference from the firewall. I'll get some pictures in tomorrow. I'm close to massaging the pan in effort for that last little bit.
                If you raise the engine you have to raise the trans an equal amount or you'll change (not good) the pinon angle which will give you a vibration.

                treblig

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                • #9
                  The Tie Rods should be straight, it might be difficult to set the Toe with them bent.
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                  SDC Member Since 1967

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                  • #10
                    Could the center pin be so horrendously worn it is contributing to this?

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                    • #11
                      Is it an original 63 6 cyl car? The engine mounts on the frame are different for 6 and V8s. Is it a 63V (v8) or 63S (6cyl)? Just a thought..

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                      • #12
                        You do have the right ends of the "ends" going the correct direction don't you (the short tie rod ends go out at the spindles)?
                        Mike Sal

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                        • #13
                          The other guys know a lot more about a Lark than I do, but this thought just popped in my head. I am told that a 50 Champion had odd ball steering linkage and required a specific pan for clearance. Is it possible your replacement pan is by chance a 50 and it won't work with the linkage of your 63?
                          Wayne
                          "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

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