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Steve Winzar
07-09-2017, 01:34 AM
Hi all.
I am about to replace The Engine and Transmission mounts in a 1962 GT with a Flightomatic trans.. I have seen the Studeblogger site and also Gord Richmond's writings on the subject, but no mention has ever been made regarding the exhaust system . Does the exhaust pipe flange need unbuttoning at the exhaust manifold to do the job- same again for slackening the crossmember under the transmission? Also, is it any easier to remove the mountings if the bent steel bracket (for the engine mount upper stud to go through) bolted to the engine block is also removed- I surmised the whole shebang might not need lifting so high...
Steve

bensherb
07-09-2017, 02:01 AM
When mine broke I only needed to lift the engine 1 1/2" or so to remove the broken mount and the other non broken one then insert new mounts. I did one at a time and didn't need to fuss with anything else at all. It only took about 15 minutes to replace both. Oh, I didn't tighten the nuts on them until both new mounts were in place with the engine sitting on them. I haven't replaced the trans mount on the GT, but have on other Studes and just unbolted it lifted the trans a bit and swapped them.

sals54
07-09-2017, 03:51 AM
When mine broke I only needed to lift the engine 1 1/2" or so to remove the broken mount and the other non broken one then insert new mounts. I did one at a time and didn't need to fuss with anything else at all. It only took about 15 minutes to replace both. Oh, I didn't tighten the nuts on them until both new mounts were in place with the engine sitting on them. I haven't replaced the trans mount on the GT, but have on other Studes and just unbolted it lifted the trans a bit and swapped them.

Same experience for me. Trans mounts also. One at a time, remove all the nuts first, and don't tighten anything down till all are replaced. I did engine and trans at the same time.

JoeW
07-09-2017, 08:53 AM
Since the transmission mounts have the two bolts on the side of the transmission, they can be easily replaced without lifting anything. If you remove the u-shaped steel piece on the engine above the front mounts you don't have to lift the front of the engine because of the longer stud on the bottom of the mount. Just attach the mount to the u-shaped piece and then attach the assembly to the engine.

bezhawk
07-09-2017, 10:21 AM
Just don't jack up the engine with the oil pan. it won't hold the weight.

Buzzard
07-09-2017, 12:44 PM
When I replaced the left mount on my '63 GT,(many moons ago so I was much younger and way more stupid) I simply undid the nuts, blocked the wheels, put her in gear(forward) and gingerly advanced the throttle lifting the motor and freeing up the mount. Real easy to remove and replace, just keep your fingers out of the way. Probably not in the manual but it worked just fine. Make sure the engine is in good tune so no stumbling or missing.
Bill

Commander Eddie
07-09-2017, 12:48 PM
When jacking up the engine you might want to remove the distributor cap since it is so close to the firewall on our V8s. Just a little insurance.

bensherb
07-09-2017, 06:15 PM
Just don't jack up the engine with the oil pan. it won't hold the weight.

True! I used a short piece of 2x4 between the jack and pan flange at the block.

Steve Winzar
07-09-2017, 07:53 PM
Thanks for the input gents, I will take it onboard and go from there.
I noted that when you put the transmission into reverse the radiator fan clips the lower left edge of the fan shroud. On checking the left hand engine mount I found it is composed of a few sheets of insertion rubber with a bolt through the whole lot. This is what you get from non Studebaker people.....
Steve

bensherb
07-09-2017, 10:30 PM
LOL, whatever works. You can also replace them with the GM version that uses a thru bolt, at least they don't break they just wear out.

When mine broke, the right one, I was of course "gettin on it" and the ends of the fan blades were folded over from hitting the shroud, and the air cleaner bolt dented the hood from the inside. It made an ungodly noise. I replaced the fan and shroud, and pretend I dont see the dent in the hood. I had the new Stude mounts so used them, if I had to buy them I'd have used the GM.

jrlemke
07-09-2017, 11:17 PM
What are the G.M. versions from? -Jim

sals54
07-09-2017, 11:19 PM
When jacking up the engine you might want to remove the distributor cap since it is so close to the firewall on our V8s. Just a little insurance.

Good point here. Plus, just suck it up and use a cherry picker. You're only lifting it a couple inches. If your floor jack slips, you'll deeply regret it. Save yourself a lot of grief. Save the jack for the trans mounts.

bensherb
07-10-2017, 02:10 AM
What are the G.M. versions from? -Jim

It's a set of doughnuts, big washers, a couple spacers and bolts. You'll probably only use half the doughnuts, and your own bolt. The whole kit is expensive but the doughnuts are cheap.

1955-'57 car and '55-'59 truck

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-Motor-Mount-Kit-for-Chevy-1955-1956-1957-Set-of-8-/171666500814?fits=Year%3A1955%7CMake%3AChevrolet

You can get them in urethande too:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prothane-7-503-Motor-Mount-Insert-Bushing-Kit-55-57-Chevy-Belair-8-pc-Poly-/182319505639?fits=Year%3A1955%7CMake%3AChevrolet