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Master cylinder removal 1956 president

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  • Brakes: Master cylinder removal 1956 president

    Has anyone ever had trouble removing the bolts out of the master cylinder? I cannot get the back one to budge! Any suggestions?
    1949 2R5
    1955 Champion
    1955 Champion Regal
    1964 Daytona HT

  • #2
    Just the usual wire brush threads penetrating oil longer wrenches. Good luck.

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    • #3
      I'm not in a position right now to venture out and get a good look under any of my vehicles to refresh my memory of the exact challenge the bolts present. (Don't have your exact model either, but they are similar through the years) In general, if you can get a good quality "Box-End" wrench on the bolt/nut, after a generous soaking with penetrating oil, a few good taps with a hammer will give you the best opportunity to break "rust-weld" grip.

      Avoid worn wrenches and sockets because the lack of a firm grip from worn tools increases the chance of stripping. Hammering on a ratchet handle is not good for the ratchet mechanism. Box ends, if space allows, provides the best grip.
      John Clary
      Greer, SC

      SDC member since 1975

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      • #4
        For rusty bolts and nuts under a vehicle where i can make it work, i do the following: Clean any all exposed threads, soak in oil/solvent/etc. Attach 6 point box end wrench or socket on breaker bar. as far away from fastener as possible on wrench handle put a bottle jack and pump until as much car weight as i dare is on fastener. Come back in couple hours, more oil if no movement, pump on more weight. Look next day if moved. Still nothing, if open wrench put punch on bolt head and hit hard with hammer to jar threads. Keep after till breaks or breaks loose.

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        • #5
          I just spend the last couple of weeks disassembling a 53 Coupe, some came fairly easy but many required heat. After getting the bolt red hot, let it cool, squirt on what ever your favorite penetrant is (my father in law gave me a product called "Free all" that seems to work well) and with any luck at all it should be broken loose. I didn't have to worry about paint since this will be a total rebuild. In some cases I pulled out the rattle gun (impact) when it seemed like all I was doing was turning the nut a half a turn to two turns out and then re tightening, adding penetrant. Good luck

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          • #6
            I prefer heat when away from flammable materials...... I've found once you spray penetrant on you usually create a big flame if re-applying heat....

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            • #7
              I would use a 1/2" impact with 6 point impact socket. If it breaks loose, tighten it up , then loosen more each time as you go back and forth. This would be after soaking it with penetrating oil. If it breaks off it is a common fastener to find.
              Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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              • #8
                Years ago I had to replace the M/C in the Power Hawk and after a dozen years of being subjected to salty roads, the bolts snapped and it took an air hammer to drive the remaining sections out. Subsequent replacement cycles were a cinch since the car was no longer exposed to winter chemicals...

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                • #9
                  Might be wise to avoid a torch in close proximity to the fuel line. They usually respond the Liquid Wrench and air impact wrench. When you re-install use never seize.

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