Rear Axle: Replacement rear end for '62 Hawk

[San Diego Ron]

Is there a direct fit complete rear end from another car that will fit my Hawk without modifications? My car has a 4 speed. Thanks

[StudeRich]

The best bolt in replacement is one from a '53 to '66 Stude. V8 with a Dana Model 44 in your ratio, usually 3.31 to 1.

Among Stude. owners, they are not hard to find at all, do you belong to your Local SDC Chapter?

There are VERY, very few '56 Ford Wagons, Granada's and such around with the correct WIDTH in Junk Yards anymore to choose from.

[swvalcon]

With a small amount of work you could make a 8.8 ford fit. Nice thing is you have late model brakes and easy to find parts when done. Too bad you are not in Mn my nephew could set you up with a bolt in unit.

[San Diego Ron]

There is a Dana 44 for sale near me for $65. Says it measures 53" between flanges; 33" between pearches with a 5-5;5 lug pattern (Haven't measured mine yet) Also states it is for Ford Bronco; Scout; Dodge or Jeep. Is this something I should look into? When my wife followed me in another car she said right rear wheel was wobbling, also seals leaking near driveshaft.

[StudeRich]

Your Wheels should have a 4 1/2 inch bolt circle same as early MoPar, Ford and some AMC and Jeep, not 5.5

[Treblig]

I rebuilt a 67 Mustang 8 inch rear end for my daughter's 59 Silver Hawk. The width is within 1/8" overall so I can still use the current wheels/tires. But I will have to reattach (weld) the spring pads to fit the Silver hawk spring width. I'll be posting the swap soon on my Silver Hawk "Major Modifications" thread.
I choose the Ford 8" because of availability of parts, same bolt pattern and because the width is almost exactly the same.

treblig

[San Diego Ron]

I like that idea and I'll be watching for your build posting.

[swvalcon]

Ron. If you take a 8.8 out of a Ford explorer and shorten the long side so you can use a short side axle. You end up with 57.1/2". They come with posi tract and disc brakes and I think anywhere from 3.23-3.73 gears. My nephew does them on alot of cars he works on and gets the whole set up at the parts yard for under $250. I know he's sold some ready to go units for around $650. I would check to see if anyone in your area shortens rear housings.

[PackardV8]

What's with the replacement parts thing? The Dana 44 is the most widely used rear axle in the history of the motor car. Ford, Chevy, Mopar, Jeep, IH, Jaguar, Sunbeam, Toyota and many others use it over a sixty-five year span. The parts are literally thick on the ground and every parts store has them on the shelf. All the Stude-specific brake parts are as near as any Stude vendor.

jack vines

[Treblig]

What's with the replacement parts thing? The Dana 44 is the most widely used rear axle in the history of the motor car. Ford, Chevy, Mopar, Jeep, IH, Jaguar, Sunbeam, Toyota and many others use it over a sixty-five year span. The parts are literally thick on the ground and every parts store has them on the shelf. All the Stude-specific brake parts are as near as any Stude vendor.

jack vines

I thought my original '59 Hawk rear end had tapered bearings and pulling the axles can be a pain. My daughter will be taking off to college and needs something she can take to any mechanic and get it repaired. I know to some folks say that the Stude rear ends are easy to fix, but where I live there are no mechanics who are familiar with the cars and parts are readily available (on a days notice). If her car breaks she has to have it fixed right away and not have to order parts.

Treblig

[Hallabutt]

Getting a Dana 44 fixed? I drove them for years as regular transportation and never had to get one "fixed." During that time I drove them for hundreds of thousands of miles. The RE was always the least problematic component of what I found to be a very reliable car. My unsolicited advice, grease the bearings, check the seals and save your money.

[JoeHall]

To the OP, I agree with others here, the rear end has been almost trouble free, except a pinion seal, once every 5-10 years or so. I'd replace the pinion seal, and figure out why the rear wheel is wobbling, fix it, then ease on down the road. The wobble is most likely due to a warped wheel, misaligned/loose hub, cracked/bent axle or worn out bearing, in that order.