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345 DeSoto
05-04-2017, 04:48 PM
Is cured JB Weld 100% gasoline proof?

jclary
05-04-2017, 04:56 PM
There are more than one JB Weld formulation. I'm not where I can check, but I believe I have a couple of the different packages. Also, there are offerings that cure faster or slower when catalyzed. Perhaps you could pull up their website and learn what would be best for what you have in mind.

So...after typing the above paragraph, I went to their website in which they claim for gasoline applications, to use "Water Weld," or the "Steel Stick" products.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0411/5921/products/8277_WaterWeld_10.8.14.jpg?v=1419965253

r1lark
05-04-2017, 06:49 PM
Google is your friend. Since you have an internet connection, 15 seconds on Google would have gotten you this: "When fully cured, J-B Weld is completely resistant to water, gasoline, and about every other petroleum product or automotive chemical. For wet-surface or submerged water or gasoline repairs, try our SteelStik or WaterWeld."

rockne10
05-04-2017, 07:38 PM
Friend of mine cracked his hemi engine drag racing (legal sanctioned track; not outlaw ;) ). Put it back together with JB Weld, machined it, ran several more seasons and finally sold the engine to an up-and-comer.

joncon
05-04-2017, 07:39 PM
I've repaired 5 or 6 gas tanks over the years with J-B Weld and have never had one leak. I repaired the tank in my 33 Ford
6 years ago and no problems yet. I've only repaired pin holes with it though, no large holes.

345 DeSoto
05-04-2017, 08:04 PM
The reason I ask, is because I have to put my gas tank sending unit back together, after repairing it.

jclary
05-04-2017, 08:15 PM
The reason I ask, is because I have to put my gas tank sending unit back together, after repairing it.

Now I'm confused. Are you needing to fill a hole? Or are you only needing to seal your sending unit once it is installed. I would think an appropriate gasket is all that would be needed to reinstall a sending unit.

345 DeSoto
05-04-2017, 09:12 PM
JCLARY - When I took my gas tank out this week, I removed the sending unit. The solder seal on the tube coming out of the unit was broken, and the unit itself was covered with some sort of grunge. I took the sending unit apart and cleaned it, and it works. Now I have to refasten the tube to the unit, and seal the two halves of the unit back together..thus, my question on JB Weld. I have a gasket for the sender to the tank.

jclary
05-04-2017, 09:24 PM
OK, DeSoto...as Paul Harvey used to say...now I know the "Rest of the story!":)

Never Enough Studebakers
05-05-2017, 09:30 AM
I only use PC-7. I have used it in restoring a steering wheel to fuel tanks. My last project was rebuilding the inside of my pitted calipers on the '63 Avanti. I have found PC-7 to be much better to work with then J-B Weld. And PC-7 goes along ways. My two cents.

SScopelli
05-05-2017, 10:16 AM
Is cured JB Weld 100% gasoline proof?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=is+jb+weld+gasoline+safe

wittsend
05-05-2017, 11:41 AM
I have a '73 Pinto I converted to the Turbo 2.3 out of the T-Bird Turbo Coupe. Being the engine is fuel injectioned I needed a return line back to the tank. I drilled and soldered a section of gas line to the sending unit as it was far easier to remove than the whole tank (sender is on the side, not top). Unfortunately the soldering process melted the nylon insulator where the wire connects. I liberally applied JB Weld to both sides and nearly 10 years later I have no leak.

Mike Van Veghten
05-05-2017, 12:57 PM
First hand experience -

Yes, the normal (slow setting) version of JB Weld IS impervious to gasoline.
For at least two years on a daily driver carburetor.

Mike

Buzzard
05-05-2017, 02:24 PM
Another product I have used to seal the jet wells in Quadrajet carburetors is: MARINE TEX Probably more available in areas with lots of boating facilities. Just don't breath the fumes while it cures as I'm sure it must have "cancer" written all over it.
Bill

sweetolbob
05-05-2017, 03:28 PM
Just don't breath the fumes while it cures as I'm sure it must have "cancer" written all over it.
Bill

Bill

That's a bit more of a throwaway line than I think is fair to Marine Tex. It's epoxy resin no more no less. It's not mother's milk but it's a product used safely everyday by the general public.

http://www.marinetex.com/media/5373/marine-tex_flex_set_resin_ghs.pdf

http://www.marinetex.com/media/5372/marine-tex_flex_set_hardener_ghs.pdf

Bob

Buzzard
05-06-2017, 12:05 PM
OK Bob, sorry about that. It's just that when I see smoke coming from the curing process I jump to conclusions. Thanks for clearing the air, so to speak.
Bill

Jeff_H
05-06-2017, 12:38 PM
Well I hope so...

I searched this topic a couple years ago and the consensus info it it was. My late Dad's 1948 Minneapolis Moline tractor at the farm was having issues and I thought a carb overhaul may help. Unfortunately, a brass fitting for the fuel line broke off flush with the cast iron carb body. To make it worse, tried to use a easy-out to get the broken stump out but succeeded in splitting the cast iron boss for the fitting apart. I am sure replacement parts could be sourced but I wanted to get it back together. I coated the threads of a new fitting with JB weld, then fitted the broken corner back around it. For good measure, I bend a pc of thin sheet metal and made sort of a collar and glued all that over the boss with more JB weld for reinforcement. Let it cure for about 2 weeks. I got the carb back together but the problem remained unsolved so all that for nada. I've not had any time to revisit it. I think the power valve maybe clogged and I did not remove it from the carb during the rebuild since it seemed stuck and I didn't want to snap that brass rod off too.

For the time I did have some gas in there it seemed to be alright.

TX Rebel
05-07-2017, 09:51 AM
I have not had success using JB weld in contact with gas, but POR 15 has done very well.

GrumpyOne
05-07-2017, 04:09 PM
I have not had success using JB weld in contact with gas, but POR 15 has done very well.

Another product to be considered is Devcon's titanium putty. Quite pricey but industrial strength.

In fact I once used a skim coat on a porous oil pan and never had a leak...

parts
05-07-2017, 07:33 PM
I used it a bit..several times as my 53 tank had split at the right side mount. No luck..even tired the Plumber water version..waste of time. I found a NEW NOS tank from a gent here..and replaced mine, after boil out and repair the old tank still leaked...it still leaked a little.

Now getting the 1/4 inch leak welded and will sell and otherwise nice tank.

I use JB Weld a a lot .always great..but not this time..

GrumpyOne
05-07-2017, 10:48 PM
I used it a bit..several times as my 53 tank had split at the right side mount. No luck..even tired the Plumber water version..waste of time. I found a NEW NOS tank from a gent here..and replaced mine, after boil out and repair the old tank still leaked...it still leaked a little.

Now getting the 1/4 inch leak welded and will sell and otherwise nice tank.

I use JB Weld a a lot .always great..but not this time..

Soldering a patch will work just as well as welding and is a whole lot simpler.

parts
05-07-2017, 10:54 PM
Unfortunately I had a radiator shop I used successfully before on other projects..this time still had seepage at the mount flange after about 100 miles.. The solder split at inside of mount flange and tank,, A clen no rust tank too,,
They offered 75$ refund..which I put towards a NOS tank $175.00.. I had others soldered..first time I ever had a problem like that..
I like that nice NOS tank..!
And after I fix the old..I'll pass it on cheaply to get another Stude back on the road..

JoeHall
05-07-2017, 11:12 PM
I have a '73 Pinto I converted to the Turbo 2.3 out of the T-Bird Turbo Coupe. Being the engine is fuel injectioned I needed a return line back to the tank. I drilled and soldered a section of gas line to the sending unit as it was far easier to remove than the whole tank (sender is on the side, not top). Unfortunately the soldering process melted the nylon insulator where the wire connects. I liberally applied JB Weld to both sides and nearly 10 years later I have no leak.
I had a similar situation in the mid 1990s with the fuel supply tube, that exits the front, lower corner on Stude tanks. That, "straw" had came loose from the original soldering. I jacked the car up high, so all the gas would run to the low side, then used JB Weld generously to reseal the straw. I left it on the jack for a day or two, to dry thoroughly. It held for 3-4 years, till the gas tank mount hole gave out on the other side, but that's another story.