View Full Version : Lark Ram Air

04-28-2017, 11:43 AM
Here is some pics of the cold air intake I just finished for my Lark. Everything is still in mock up form with dummy engine, etc. Thought you guys would get a kick out of this.6375663757

Bordeaux Daytona
04-28-2017, 12:14 PM
Very nice!:!:

04-28-2017, 01:56 PM
Around here you would be getting dust and sand out from under the wheel wells.

Mike Van Veghten
04-28-2017, 06:16 PM
ST2D -

Not sure of the year Lark...but the air is most likely coming from the front of the car, not the fender well.

Not sure how much actual "ram" effect you'll get. My 59 Lark with the stock ducting running from the front of the body to the interior isn't with much actual pressure.
But, the incoming air will be MUCH cooler than under hood temperature air, which is a very good thing on it's own. It "may" even require a small tuning change to gain the most benefit from the cooler air.


04-28-2017, 07:10 PM
Yeah 10-4 Mike mine is a 59 and I actually blocked the tunnels in the fenders directly behind the ducts for the air cleaner, considering that from that point on the fender well headers would have heated the incoming air.:!:

04-28-2017, 10:11 PM
Looks like a very good start!

Any idea what Year, Make and Model the Air Cleaner came from?

04-29-2017, 08:38 AM
Yeah Rich its a 66-67 impala 327 275 hp air cleaner pretty sure same as 396 of that vintage. I chose this one because it will clear holley dual feed carbs.

04-29-2017, 08:42 AM
Love it...and the headers too! Are the headers meant for a ChevyII/ early Nova? cheers, Junior

04-29-2017, 08:51 AM
Thanks Junior , The headers are made by Hedman they are designed to fit chevy S10s with sbc swaps. I had to modify the # 7 tube to clear the steering box, and did some minor trimming on the outer lip of front body mount .

04-29-2017, 08:52 AM
I'm assuming that the air tunnels are very similar, or the same for the 59 & 60 larks. Which, with the modifications you have made, probably will give you a more steady air supply, absent turbulence from the radiator fan. Regardless, of whether or not you get any "Ram" effect, probably a "do no harm" modification that looks COOL!:!:

Mike Van Veghten
04-29-2017, 02:39 PM
John C. -

See my comment, and lumpys answer..!


04-29-2017, 06:08 PM
John C. -

See my comment, and lumpys answer..!


Yeah Mike, I came late to the table & didn't read the entire thread close enough. I have a '60 259 Lark (Stock). So, I know how those air vent tunnels are constructed, and it looks like we are on the same page regarding performance.

To those unaware of those air vent tunnels, I can see how easy it would be to assume the air would be from the wheel wells.

04-29-2017, 10:36 PM
Thanks for all the input guys, i'm having a blast with this build because I simply just can't go buy catalog parts. Thinking about how to fabricate parts and use stuff that i have had laying around for a long time is very refreshing. So far engine is mocked up , trans crossmember is fabricated, clutch linkage is done, rear springs rebuilt with custom built traction bars. The 9" diff. is narrowed with new axles and a 4.11 posi. All this will be wrapped in an original paint, tahiti choral package…Hereby named "Project HALF BAKED" :!!:

04-30-2017, 12:10 AM
"tahiti choral package"… Music to the ears. ;)

05-08-2017, 08:51 PM
Howdy, here is what I did with my 60 Lark.
Mine was a heater delete car. Being from Florida, the original owner did not need a Climatizer.

So I added a Supercharger & did not want to draw air from under the hood.

Here is what I fabricated. Using the space normally being used by the Heater Core. I found a K&N rectangular filter to fill that space.

Then I look some aluminum and cut a baffle to fit between the filter and the opening going into the car. It was cut oval on one side, to fit the contour of the heater box.
I removed the on-off baffle so air is always on, flowing into the intake.
With the baffle I formed it so most of the air is being forced thru the filter. The rest is bypassed to feed the fresh-air hose to the passenger.

Using a hole saw, I cut a hole in the heater box, epoxied an exhaust pipe the diameter to fit the Supercharger intake hose. Since this was years ago, I can't remember the diameter of the pipe.

So now I have CLEAN cooler fresh air taken from the front of the car being forced into the Supercharger.

Another benefit is now the supercharger whine is duct-ed right into the interior. Who needs a radio !

Works great.

Keeping Studebaker's alive.

63959 63960

05-08-2017, 09:30 PM
What an awesome set up! My lark also was sans heater , and I did not want to draw in hot air from the fender well headers. Do you have pictures of the car as a whole ? Is it 4 spd or auto? Definitely would like to see more:woot:

07-04-2017, 10:34 PM
What an awesome set up! My lark also was sans heater , and I did not want to draw in hot air from the fender well headers. Do you have pictures of the car as a whole ? Is it 4 spd or auto? Definitely would like to see more:woot:

Lumpy, thanks for asking. R2 Style with Power Shift automatic.
Here are some posts from the SDC forum talking about my Lark. I post under Stude-Preferred.


Here is a link from a car show. You will find the car show post link within the SDC comments.
My interview is around the 13+ minute mark.

Grandfather's Studebaker Dealership info:

Jeff T.
07-05-2017, 04:14 PM
One thought I had, but never got to, was make a ram air hood from a 61 or 62/63 lark hood. Raise the center section to make a scoop, the 61 would obviously have the larger intake.

Jeff T.

07-05-2017, 10:12 PM
Thanks Stude preferrred! What an awesome looking lark! Guess i'm gonna havta to post some current pics of the 59. Mine also has the wheel vintiques series 62. Although mine are 15x5 front & 15x8 rear with 255 60 15 " rear tires. Im keeping most of the original tahiti choral and the wheels will be painted satin dark gray. The 327 is going on the test stand next week , 10.8 compression aluminum heads , 7140 chevy mechanical cam .800cfm holley. The muncie is spread out all over the work bench waiting on synchro's etc. Thanks for the boost in enthusiasm !

07-05-2017, 10:39 PM
By the way.... got a letter from the Ca DMV refusing my application for HFBAKED license plates...They said it was drug related:(

10-17-2017, 05:14 PM
Don't get discouraged. I had more fun thinking up Stude related 7 character plate names while the car was being built.

I knew the license plate would be near the end of the project. So for 10+ years I would think up a name & then write it in a notepad. (Before I forgot it. haha)
Then when it came time to register the name, I had my little notepad with me, in case the name I wanted was rejected or already being used.

FASTUDE was thought of late in the build cycle. I submitted it as my #1 choice & it was approved.

Just recently I saw another vanity plate that was using a 5 (five) in place of an S. I am building another 60 Lark 2dr Sedan, to be a rat-rod of my current car. That way I will not have to worry about dings, dents or paint issues. Kind of a jekyll & hyde for two similar 60 Larks.

SO I thought I could use the "5" as FA5TUDE for its plate, just to throw off people who may see my nicely restored Lark one day & the next day are behind a beat-up Lark with the similar personalized Tag and color.
That should really confuse them. My mission is to keep STUDEBAKER in the public conciseness. That trick should help reach my goal. :!:

Keeping Studebaker alive

Atlanta GA

10-17-2017, 06:44 PM
After a couple of letters to the DMV they saw things my way and approved HFBAKED:!!: Can you post some pics of your current build Stude-Preferred? I'd love to see em, my lark is running and almost ready for the road in all its pink patina glory:lol:

Mike Van Veghten
10-17-2017, 07:32 PM
Jeff T -

Here's what I've started on my 54 wagon as sort of a cowl induction. All metal, no bondo...

Been thinking of some sort of "in the rain baffle" but haven't satisfied myself yet..!

I "started" to use two 53-55 fender doors at the back of the hood. The windshield wiper motor got in the way. Pushed the door ducting too far apart, looked terrible.


10-18-2017, 04:19 PM
Lumpy: glad you got the plate approved.
In GA, on the tag application you have to explain what the abbreviation means. So maybe that helps remove any subliminal messages. :D

Nothing yet to share on the 2nd Lark.

That project is still in my head. Daydreaming about it is the fun part for me.

I do have the car. It is a 1960 Lark VIII F body DeLuxe 2 dr Sedan. It is a true V8, which is rare for a 2 door post.
Lark Hard Tops were Regals and usually V8s. Plus even the 6 cylinder HT had the thicker frame.
Being a V8 2 door, I was happy to get the heaver gauge frame with this Lark.

I found this car on E-Bay in the early 2000s. It was originally a Fleet purchase in Arizona, thus the rare V8 combination. It has a Regal padded dash and knee pads too.
It has been waiting for its restoration turn while I was building Lark #1. I'm planning on starting on Lark #2 in spring 2018.

The fun part is thinking thru what to do with its design. I'm planning on making it cheaper. Thus the rat-rod concept. Paint it myself, sand it down where red primer comes thru like rust.

I have an true Avanti R2 engine with T-10 4 speed setting on an engine stand, restored. I was going to put it in my Grandmother's 64 Daytona HT. (Also waiting for restoration.)
But I kept thinking it would be fun to start the 60 next. Having 2 side by side at car shows. Then I wondered if I could swap the Avanti R2 into the 60.

This R2 has the side mount supercharger set-up, as found in an Avanti. The motor is longer than a Lark / Hawk R2. My 64 could handle it because I bought the radiator support parts (as found on an R3) that pushes the radiator closer to the front of the car.

An idea popped into my head a month ago, where on the 60 I could mount just the Lark face, without the fenders. That would allow the nose & radiator to be pushed forward, allowing space for the longer engine. Plus, the engine would be exposed for all to study at car shows. Kind of like a Ford '32 Roadster without its hood.

This would just be a fun to drive car, on surface streets. Not much Interstate driving. It will have a Dana 44 TT 4.09 rear axle. Already restored.
SO I wouldn't worry about tire water spray without the fenders. Being a pleasure only type car.

We will see what happens. I will post some pics, once the project begins, as I do enjoy seeing other people's projects in progress.

Keeping Studebaker alive

Atlanta, GA

10-18-2017, 04:55 PM
Hey Ken sounds like you've got some awesome parts stashed and some great Ideas:!!: If you go with the highboy look you'll want to think about some fenderwell headers to really make it pop!

10-19-2017, 03:50 PM
Hey Ken sounds like you've got some awesome parts stashed and some great Ideas:!!: If you go with the highboy look you'll want to think about some fenderwell headers to really make it pop!

HA HA, just my wife & myself. Extra bedroom closet is full of Studebaker parts I bought back in the Newman & Altman going out of business days. Along with parts under the bed and in the garage. I have a very understanding wife. You really need one, to be in this hobby.

I'm a sucker for SuperTrapp Mufflers. I had some on a '92 Mustang LX 5.0 Sedan I once owned that I special ordered new. Had the car for 1 year, before it was stolen & stripped of all the performance parts I had thrown at it. Loved the sound. The Stude R2 already has the reproduction headers. So I have thought about routing those Stainless Steel mufflers behind the front wheels. That will give it a look, just a little less extreme than fender_well headers.


Atlanta, GA