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  • Electrical: Test run Electrical

    Hi All.
    I am contemplating rigging up a minimum electrical system to test run my rebuilt engine / carb. The engine is sitting in a rolling chassis with no body around it and I think it would be the best time to trial run it. There is no exhaust system on it however. My question is whether I need to have a ballast resistor in there, and does anybody have any particular recommendations to make. Wiring diagram perhaps?
    For safety's sake I think safety-wiring the Automatic Transmission (yet to be filled) selector lever in park might be a good idea for a start of , plus plugging the oil pressure gauge take-off at the rear of one head is another. I think I have the bypass filter oil pressure restrictor already sorted but I think I will check it.
    Steve

  • #2
    I have done what you are planning with a couple of six cylinder engines. I ran them off only battery power. No voltage regulator, or generator hooked up. Since I used coils marked "internal" resistor, no ballast was required. I used an old spare Push/pull headlight switch for an ignition switch. For the starter, I used the heavy duty pickup truck six volt floor starter switch with no solenoid. I purchased an inexpensive set of gauges from a parts store and hooked up temperature and oil pressure. For my test run, I wanted those readings. Mine were manual transmission vehicles, so I won't attempt to advise you on that.

    Currently, I am building another dedicated "engine run test stand" for a V8. I had not given much thought to a ballast resistor. I'll have to work that out for this engine, but I'm not quite ready. I'm undecided about the switch for the starter. I'm probably going to use the heavy duty starter switch again, but if I can find one in my stash of parts, I'll probably wire it using a solenoid. Good luck with yours. Let us know how it works out.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC

    SDC member since 1975

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    • #3
      Have a good seat bolted in place.
      I tried a chassis run on a Model A with only sitting on a wood box, and almost fell backwards, which would have meant loosing control.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
        Have a good seat bolted in place.
        I tried a chassis run on a Model A with only sitting on a wood box, and almost fell backwards, which would have meant loosing control.
        Hey, after seeing TWChamp's comments, I may have misunderstood what you are intending to do. I thought all you wanted to do was test run the engine. If you are planning on driving the chassis around with no body, then it is a little more involved than what I was suggesting. I am building a static test stand, not a driving one. If you plan to drive yours, (even if only around your lawn), by all means, do what he suggested. Bolt a seat with a back in place. Back when I was doing my '48 Coupe, I used a wooden ammo box. I had it secured to the frame, but not the safest choice.

        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

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        • #5
          It would not be good to run that Auto. Trans. front pump dry, you need to fill it up.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
          SDC Member Since 1967

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          • #6
            Hi Al- Thanks for the comments. I had not intended to attempt riding the frame about, just merely getting the engine running and ascertaining the WCFB rebuild is ok. No exhaust yet- I need to get one bent up (The only way go get one here in Australia unless you want to import one).

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            • #7
              Thanks for the input, John. I was going to use a spare solenoid I have that came from a Morris Mini- It has a remote starter button on top of it. Better go look in my rats nest of parts and wires.....
              Steve

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Steve Winzar View Post
                Thanks for the input, John. I was going to use a spare solenoid I have that came from a Morris Mini- It has a remote starter button on top of it. Better go look in my rats nest of parts and wires.....
                Steve
                I understand the "rats nest of parts" comment. In fabricating my test stand, I have used up so much of my "rats nest of junk," I'm about to have to spend some money to replenish my pile of scrap metal. The first pic I've posted, is of the early stages of fabricating over a year ago. The second one is after installing a bellhousing, starter, and radiator. That picture was taken last week. The flex exhaust tubing is not yet completed, as I have yet to decide just where I'm going to install the muffler. Once I mount the muffler, I will clean it up and make it neater. Since taking the picture, I have installed a battery tray and put the battery in.

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                John Clary
                Greer, SC

                SDC member since 1975

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                • #9
                  I would be concerned about spinning the automatic transmission if it is empty. Even in park position, the torque converter and input shaft is turning.

                  Oops! I see Rich beat me to it.
                  RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                  10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                  4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                  5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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